Rock climbing sling strength reddit. Reddit's rock climbing training community.

Rock climbing sling strength reddit. That said, SWL isn't really referred to in climbing contexts because it's not very relevant. This is for a solo project, I wont get into the details but im doing some urban climbing and just need some protection while climbing a tower. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. The steeper the angle of the turn, the higher the decrease of strength. trueBecause everybody always throws in the name you would expect, here's something else: rock pillars/ocun (czech republic): really good shoes (eg. As a frequent faller/hangdogger, I'd certainly r/RockClimbing: Rock ClimbingHave been getting back into climbing after a few years off (well, almost 10 years) and wanted to set a bigger goal with it to keep me at it and I figured devils tower would be a good goal. The chain is attached by two bolts/anchor points in the rock at both ends of it. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. I’ve been doing a lot more with accessory rope recently and it always blows my mind how strong it is. What kind of rope do I have to use? is a 5mm rope good enough? I wanted to use a 6 mm as recommended here but it wasn't available in my local climbing shop so I bought 4m of 5mm one. Those that have been climbing for years, is there still a fear of gear failure and falling? Keep in mind that the strength rating for these cords are for a single strand. I am thinking about maybe exchanging one of the strength training days with an additional climbing day (I do not have time to work out more than 3 times a week). When I started I could do v2 and muscle through some v3s Now my technique is vastly improved but I’m still climbing v3s and can barley do some v4s. You should also have redundancy in the rappel anchors and slings as rappelling is one of the most common places where accidents occur in rock climbing. May 20, 2016 · The 10kn rating on cordelette refers to it's single strand rated strength. As the climber climbs and the belayer belays, there will be a natural back and forth sideways sawing action against the rock. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Has any got any experience with the Edelrid Switch Adjust that’d be willing to discuss a few questions about usage? I’m… Now you’re completely on top of each other. Dec 17, 2020 · I'm looking at a 10mm thick 60/100cm long sling. However, finger strength and endurance are certainly the most critical factors determining the individual’s performance on the rock. Any advice on other excercises I should add to my routine that would help with grip strength and climbing in general? Hi, So I’ve been climbing pretty regularly for about 2 years now. All of that load of the fall is transferred from sling, to the stem, to the axle, to the cam lobes, to the rock. Hi I would like to build a quad anchor for some sport multi pitch. Thursday is project bouldering because it's sandwiched by rest days from pulls. What kind of training can I do at home with limited equipment (pullup bar and dumbells)? I've been doing pullups and half crimp static hangs so far. Popular Uses for Climbing Slings Draws and extending quick-draws Slings and runners generally come in single and double sizes, with the single length being at least 2-3 times longer than the average quick draw. Check /r/climbing for more content. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Pinch strength and crimp strength are somewhat related but mainly use different muscles to achieve the goal of holding on to the hold and not falling off. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. Whiskey River – A southern rock tribute band delivering high-energy hits to keep the party going. That build up of finger strength has taken years over many hangboard cycles. happening at Seafarers Memorial Park, Anacortes, WA on Fri, 04 Jul, 2025 at 05:00 pm PDT. It's also commonly used in sling configurations for climbing protection. Taking it slow, learning a lot. Jul 4, 2025 · A Holiday Craft Bazaar at the Skagit County Fairgrounds! Find tickets & information for ROCK THE DOCK. That’s why every complete set of climbing equipment includes a wide variety of slings in various lengths and materials. Feb 18, 2016 · Safe working load is usually significantly lower, around 1/5th of the breaking strength. The printed rating, often 22KN, means "it took, on average, about 22KN of force to break this sewn loop by pulling from end to end" Fine. Even though you don't appear to have a sharp edge, that is going to wear the slings and they're not designed to take abrasion that way. And yes we are scared of falling. I'm thinking of getting back into climbing shape by weight lifting in the gym about 3 days a week, and by trying to climb 1-2 times a week if I can and hangboarding whenever I can't. A big tree. smaller cams are more likely to be janked up slings get worn out, so check those extra closely the newer stuff is generally way nicer than the older stuff good used cams are only slightly cheaper in my experience its more expensive overall to buy a nice set of cams to replace a crappy set you got cuz they were cheaper. I just finished my second playthrough as mage (first was strength) I used 2 spells for bosses rock sling and night comet. Between 2. Easy to understand. To put it simply: Ondra is elite in all aspects of rock climbing, Magnus is elite in strength-associated metrics related to climbing. But to secure myself and to prepare the abseiling I needed the slings I had Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. Note that these are climbing specific ones though, not the ones you pick up from the hardware store. Drawbacks of Dyneema Climbing Slings If Dyneema is the same strength as nylon, but much lighter, smaller and more abrasion and water resistant, why would you ever get nylon slings? Before you throw out your nylon slings, consider the drawbacks of Dyneema: - Dynamic absorption - Durability - Cost - Melting point - Slickness Dynamic Absorption Reddit's rock climbing training community. This is typically what I bring on most multi pitch climbs and how I’d rack it to maximize space for pro + draws, the extra carabiners shown (not attached) are situationally Ok, the dyneema sling ratings make a lot of sense since they are sold almost exclusively in sewn loops. I've been getting into climbing for a month or two now. Fast Online Catalog. The pros seem to be it's easier to untie. The shape of the cam lobes causes cam to convert the pull on the sling into outward pressure on the cam lobes which in turn increases the friction allowing it to resist the pull-out. Beat Malenia with rock sling with meteorite in offhand Beat Elden Beast with comet with staff of loss in offhand Always keep your rock sling, the range, the stagger and Reddit's rock climbing training community. Been reading FOTH and John Long to figure out what I need to get. CF%Bw is an incredibly strong correlation with climbing grade (R 2 =. MembersOnline • owensum ADMIN MOD Reddit's rock climbing training community. Those strengths add together. Feedback much appreciated: Rope 9. MembersOnline • eheath23 ADMIN MOD Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. Mar 3, 2025 · The “quad” offers a strong, fast, redundant, simple anchor when distributing forces between pieces is a high priority. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. My understanding is that dyneema slings should be replaced every three to five years. If you make an equalized three point anchor, very common in trad climbing, then your master point actually has three strands of cord. Jul 4, 2025 · Mark your calendars and get ready to join us for our annual Rock the Dock event on July 4th! Hosted by the Port of Anacortes at Seafarers’ Memorial Park, this free community concert will feature musical performances by The Naughty Blokes and Sway. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 1. The cons seem to be lots more people die from screwing up the knot and/or backup knot. Rope will obviously go through the quick draws at the bottom. I've noticed a curious suggestion for isometric exercise: The following guidelines govern isometric training protocol: Intensity—maximal effort Effort duration—5 to 6 s Rest intervals—approximately 1 min if only small muscle groups, such as calf Reddit's rock climbing training community. Read on for the best recommendations. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Jun 4, 2024 · Mark your calendars and get ready to join us for our annual Rock the Dock event on July 4th! Hosted by the Port of Anacortes at Seafarers’ Memorial Park, this free community concert will feature musical performances by High Voltage and Point of Sail. minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. Jul 4, 2025 · Check out all 4th of July activities, parades, and fireworks shows on the Skagit Kid Insider 4th of July Guide. While the pinch uses your thumb muscles, it uses a different finger muscle, the Lumbricals. 10s within a few tries at the gym. There’s a lot of technique in sloper climbing, but those same positions are often murder on your shoulders, so it helps to have good movement/mobility and strength in very wide positions. So you need to know exactly what length fits your requirements. I say nylon because it has some elasticity if you accidentally shock load it. Long enough to build and anchor and tie a knot in so you can clip two bolts when using as a PAS. Typically sling lengths can measure between 60 to 180 cm. But the hitch reduced the strength of the sling up to 50% and each overhand by 40% (from what i found on the www). Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. Also, it's easier to adjust and easier to tie. m. Climbing Definitions If you fall onto a piece of protection in the rock using a standard lead climbing system (belayer, rope from belay device, through protection, to climbers harness). My weight is probably the biggest issue, I am 210 lbs @ 5’9 but a lot of it is muscle (powerlifting background). The rock went from 'solid and rough with ideal grip' to ' what the f*** is going on, am I climbing on algae and moss right now or has someone greased everything up here?' I used every single sling and quickdraw I had on me to get to the nearest "top". 604) and the magnitude of improvement in CF%bw when going from 5. Get yourself a +7 or more regal carian scepter in your left hand, put the meteorite staff on the right hand and shoot rock sling with the regal scepter The rest is just about high intelligence and possibly the graves-mass talisman. Another possible con is that the rope strength may be reduced with bowline knot. Accompanied by Youtube videos to support the exercises. Jun 26, 2025 · Join us at Seafarers’ Memorial Park on Friday, July 4th for our annual Rock the Dock event! We hope you’re as excited as we are for this year’s celebration. You’ll find a great variety on our menu including many seafood options, signature sandwiches and burgers, creative entrees, gluten free choices, and of course, our legendary wood-fired pizzas. Auto Parts for Your Vehicle at Reliably Low Prices. Jun 15, 2023 · Mark your calendars and get ready to join us for our annual Rock the Dock event on July 4th! Hosted by the Port of Anacortes at Seafarers’ Memorial Park, this free community concert will feature musical performances by The Naughty Blokes and Sway. I know there's an abundance of people who blame strength over technique, but the reality is I can't do a single pull-up. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee I would not use dyneema slings to extend the master point over the ledge. Best Use Cases: Tubular webbing is often used in situations where flexibility and knot-tying capabilities are important, such as in rock climbing where knots need to be easily adjustable and retrievable. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. They take the stage at 8:00 p. ) nylon sling will last much longer and hold up to more wear and tear so would be a good option for your first sling. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. Disclaimer Please understand that rock climbing is an extremely dangerous activity. For an all-around sling, go with 120cm nylon. The home of Climbing on reddit. DIY-Easy. rebel, ozone, top gun) and slings at fair prices, haven't tried out their biners and crashpads yet edelrid (germany): great ropes and quickdraws chillaz (austria): cool clothes for climbing and bouldering of course bd, petzl What are your thoughts on using this as an anchor for top roping? Is it safe? The two carabiners at the top will be locked to a thick steel chain. Also I really like the advice given in this subreddit :) I have started rock climbing, and so far I have been climbing once a week and doing BW strength training twice a week. If they stagger easily, use rock sling, if they are armored use night comet. Feb 27, 2018 · As strong as slings are, 16% reduction in strength doesn't even make me flinch. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. If you are climbing hard outside and don't want to lose what you gained from a previous cycle, move into a maintenance phase. 6 Experience: climbing for 5y, trad leading for one year ~35 pitches led total since my first lead last June. Then you can factor in the strength reduction that the knot introduces into your anchor. Plus green monster in Rock canyon takes a #4 for the wide section, and you gotta be able to do that line with your own rack ;) Such a classic. Full Manufacturer Warranty. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Get ready to rock out to your favorite Lynyrd Skynyrd tunes played by none other than local headliner Whiskey River. this list is not always up to date so you can also check the UIAA's recalls database for a Rock Climbing Technique: The Practical Guide to Movement Mastery by John Kettle - A book of exercises to improve climbing movement. 8mm x 60m Non-Dry Rope Webbing 4 x 18cm nylon sling - Runners 2 x 17cm dogbone-style quickdraw sling - Recommended by Climbit 2 x 25cm dogbone-style Hey all! I recently moved a few states over for college and as such I don’t have access to a hangboard anymore (my school’s climbing gym doesn’t have one). 13+ is pretty massive In the climbing community better climbers are talking to newbie climbers to focus on technique first and then on finger strength. Setting up anchors Slings are Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Generally with knots (this goes for ropes, slings and accesorry cord) every turn reduces the strength of the knot. There are many ways to set up a top … This. I'm currently just trying to get my strength back and am doing most 5. Dec 30, 2014 · To answer your question: I think you take a 20% hit in strength even with a perfectly tied water knot. Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. Is there anything I can do to train my fingers without This would result in increased muscle mass, which sounds great, but for a climber isometric strength gained from increased connective tissue throughout the forearm is preferable, which is gained from static holds. If there is a climbing gym where you live My issue is that i like to use the sling as follow : girth hitch to my harness and 2 overhand knots at like 1/3 and 2/3. I get it. The Rock Climber’s Exercise Guide contains everything essential for building a training plan including stability and antagonist training for injury prevention minus the “filler” content like psychology, eating, climbing technique… read a lot, liked this the most. I am wondering if I could just girth hitch a new sling through there instead of paying to get them reslung? I know this can reduce the sling strength by up to 50%, but if I use a 24kN sling on a 12kN cam then this shouldnt matter, right? Aug 9, 2016 · Do you need a personal anchor system? I would highly recommend a personal anchor system once you start cleaning climbing routes, since this is a simple and safe device for securing yourself directly to the wall. I have watched many of my guy friends with more natural upper body strength who have been climbing less time than me overtake me grade-wise pretty quickly. As strong as slings are, 16% reduction in strength doesn't even make me flinch. Jul 4, 2025 · Get ready for an incredible night of live performances featuring: The Machine – Bringing a powerhouse performance to get you up and dancing. What is the ideal sling length? The length of the sling determines what you can use it for when climbing. In short the conclusion was, train isometrically (fingerboard) rather than with grip trainers if you want to climb better. New this year! Special entertainment in between sets by the South Fork Country Kickers. Was gonna use 2 slings to maintain contact as I climb, sort of leap frogging them, idk what thats called. easily. 305 votes, 96 comments. firework show. . For example, I have some 6mm rope that is rated for 18 KN. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities. Your Choice of Quality. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. Aug 8, 2023 · Rock climbing is a multidimensional sport where skills and tactics are equally important as physical conditioning. Have a lot of experience sport climbing outside from before and lead 1 Based on data taken from some of the Lattice guys' research papers (Giles 2020 and 2019; links below), forearm Critical Force as a percentage of bodyweight (aka your 'all-day' rate) is a huge factor in sport climbing performance. All three methods you described are legit, and I use all three. The two Let's take the program from the Rock Climbing Training Manual as an example: it includes 4 weeks of general fitness, 3-4 of hangboarding, 2-3 of power, 3-4 of power endurance and finally a few weeks of performance. I’m all on board the strength train when it comes to slopers: four and three fingers open hand, plus wrist, shoulder, chest, and upper back/lat strength. Besides buying some 7mm Cordelette, can you suggest what slings, runners etc I should also… In Korea where sport climbing is plentiful so stocking up on my first serious gear buy. 12 votes, 51 comments. Grip strength and technique, and some research on how to optimize your training routine to focus on climbing-specific strengths. That is about 50% stronger than my 10mm dynamic rope. The Rockfish Grill serves Northwest food using fresh local ingredients. I usually only have enough time to go about 1 day a week. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. Hey Guys, I am working on building my first trad rack. I’ve been doing a lot of outdoor bouldering & while my upper body strength and core feel pretty great, I’ve noticed my fingers haven’t really been able to keep up. If you use a 16% weaker sling as a quickdraw, the rock will still break before the sling does. Most people tie their cordelettes into a big loop, meaning the strength is effectively doubled, minus some weakening from the knot. 5 and 3 hours on working days. 11- to 5. The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. May 19, 2021 · The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. We literally hang off of those with 300ft of empty space below us. I just recently learned about the bowline knot for tying your harness in for climbing. I'm sure that's not a factor for anyone with the luxury of climbing on dolerite or granite. Edit: ok got it 5 mm is not enough for normal nylon cord :-) thank you! DIY reslinging cams? Heyo! I've got some older cams I'd like reslung, is there any reason not to just cut the existing sling and tie on some new webbing with a water knot? I'm only asking because the webbing I have one and is a bit wider then the original sling, so it doesn't fit as nicely. I can't train by climbing too frequently since the closest gym is pretty far, and it's actually an outdoor wall by the coast so it gets rained out a lot. So I've developed a really strong 'strength' base, and starting to focus on building out my relative weaknesses better and getting re-focussed on performing on rope vs boulders. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Hell, they’re significantly stronger than my weaker non heat treated r/climbharder climb harder - ideas and structured training to get better at climbing Reddit's rock climbing training community. One finger monos and front levers are extremely impressive, but mean basically jack shit when trying to make the jump from 9b to 9c. Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Rock sling rocks. Since your quickdraw will all be a standard length, using different lengths of runners to create a variety of options for draw lengths to use together. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. How to know when finger strength is holding us back? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Best Open comment sort options came_to_post_this • I would like to replace the slings as I don't know their history. It also sounds like you need some rest days. Slings, runners, cord, cordelettes and webbing are all climbing essentials. Register or Buy Tickets, Price information. Around 2 hours climbing, 1 lifting. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. When they list the breaking strength of nylon or polyester rope what exactly are they listing? is it the Reddit's rock climbing training community. 27 votes, 56 comments. ahead of the 10:00 p. The rock they secure into is usually the limiting factor, though, at least in the sloppy sandstone where I climbed. The #1 online directory for things to do with kids in Skagit County. 6 million pounds. If you want to train strength in both areas, be ready to feel some level of fatigue either in your climbing or in your lifting or both and make sure to unload after 4-6 weeks of this. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. You will find a kid-friendly event calendar, playgrounds and hiking trails nearby, summer camps, classes, preschools and sports teams for kids. As this is 100% right i have focused on improving technique in the past year and made a lot of gains there but here comes the question. Saturday is power endurance. The crimp, depending on how exactly you do it mainly uses your Flexor Digitorum Profundus. I've been reading Science and Practice of Strength Training just to get a better base of understanding of the fundamentals of strength training. Fresh local yearling oysters hand battered with Italian breadcrumbs, pan fried in butter and olive oil, served with our signature slaw, roasted red pepper remoulade and waffle fries. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. Straightforward. Climbing-wise, roughly speaking, Tuesday is a light day either drills or slab because it's a beast of a lifting day. Climb outside a lot and you're guaranteed to improve almost all aspects of your climbing, even pure finger strength (depending on what type of climbing you're doing). The quick links we use are rated for at least 20kN (which is over 4000 lbs) and we use them to setup anchors to rappel off or to catch our falls. And I second the advice to get a 120cm sling for general purpose (anchor building, alpine draw, etc. The sling is a mammut magic sling 120cm (dyneema centre with abrasion resistant nylon sheath). That tiny rope is 75% the strength of my heat treated aluminum carabiners that are double it’s width. 10 pushups is difficult for me. MembersOnline • NeverAnon ADMIN MOD This is the smaller rock climbing community on reddit. This is my shopping cart with my reasoning beside it. Learn how to choose the type you need. Alaskan white fish coated with pilsner beer batter and panko, quick fried and served with our signature slaw, roasted red pepper remoulade and waffle fries. Im into rock climbing and canyoneering. Primary Climbing Area: Northeast USA, The Gunks Current Lead Range: up to 5. zzonoy ntso btoxa sloc bzto dxnrct zidkn qrvm cscl eiik