Best quad anchor climbing reddit. Absolutely the best institutional anchor.

Best quad anchor climbing reddit. I have a 6mm cordalette that I leave tied as a quad anchor. The cool thing about this anchor is that I am able to build it on the ground and quickly set it up at the top. If you're only ever going to be top-roping off bolts, you could keep a dedicated quad anchor, which is like a super strong/redundant sliding-X, or you could just use a non-equalising cordelette, which I'd probably favour because it's easier to adjust the position of the top-rope carabiners to get them just over an edge, etc. If failure of that biner does not lead to a full system failure, a non-locker is fine. I would like to see if some of you could add additional source based facts in this regard. I will recommend Crag Daddy by Patagonia Get a 6mm or bigger accessory cord and learn how to tie a quad anchor, purcell-prusik, and auto block. The quad is already an over engineered anchor and you could build an equally strong master point or clove hitch anchor with half the cord and faster adjustability. If it's a popular climbing area with an established climbing community, there should be a plan and management to make sure whoever puts in bolts/anchors knows what they're doing and that the gear is well maintained. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. The quad anchor, first mentioned (I think) around 2006 by John Long in his book “ Climbing Anchors ”, was an attempt to have the Holy Grail in anchors. I use a quad every trip because we are all moderate climbers on single pitch sport routes with two anchor bolts. ok, i know this topic has been done to death but i just need simple answers. I understand that I should get an atc guide or grigri, but what do I need in terms of external gear (rope, locking biners, quickdraws, prusik, etc) to start climbing multipitch? I do have friends who climb outdoors . Unfurl your sling or cordelette into one giant loop and double it into a smaller, two-stranded loop. I use build one when I go sport climbing (takes like 60 seconds) and then just keep it all day for each climb. A buddy of mine was climbing in Yosemite somewhat recently and said Alex Honnold and (i think) Jimmy Chin rapped down past them. Wall, San Francisco) I most commonly see folks use one of these at a crag with 2 anchor bolts; in this instance you clip a carabiner into 2 loops at the end of your PAS and clip each carabiner into an anchor bolt. What do you usually use for a top rope sport anchor and why? I've been with various groups that have used quickdraws with locking biners, sliding x with limiter knots, and simple overhand/figure 8 knot on a bight, and I'm curious what climbit's preference is. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. The static has 8s tied on the end and then I clip the quad into them. I lead and put up the quad super fast and easy and then everybody else will take a pass on top rope before my wife goes up and cleans it. ) I have cordelette, slings, and of course plenty The quad uses up an awful lot of cord unnecessarily so simply tying another type of anchor will allow you to extend it easily. The quad anchor is a rock climbing system that evenly distributes weight between multiple anchors, allowing climbers to easily move from pitch to In leading, that is definitely a big anchor, but I personally don’t really ever use a quad when leading/on multi pitch. I don't care much about the bulky issue, I want something thst is quick and safe. When making anchors my go to when possible is to girth hitch my anchor points and then build with a quad or equalette depending on how much extension I need. Tie an overhan The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. I’ll use draws or slings, depending on the situation, or just clove-hitch with the rope itself. Mammut contact sling is my personal favorite. If I’m setting up a top rope for the fam/buds to harass the rock for 3 hours, I might think about using a quad or 2 lockers, but then I go with the simple Building a quad requires either a cordelette at least 14 feet in length (6mm nylon minimum or 5. With that said, both anchors And then hope everything goes well. (Beaver St. Except the one on the left should move those knots closer to the master point I've found that both take up too much space on my rack. I've overheard one climber say that she uses two quick-draws exclusively for anchoring. The home of Climbing on reddit. a, lead 10. During the last couple of days I've had a discussion regarding climbing anchor safety with a friend of mine. It's essentially what you are trying to do. Climbing allows you to decide the level of risk you're willing to take in I am a competent gym rock climber (top rope 12. One other thing to add, is at times in multi-pitch climbing, this occurs where the leader has to top belay the second on a less than There's a reason guides almost always use quads with bolted anchors: they're incredibly bomber at good bolted anchors and will handle the failure of one of the bolts reasonably well. There is a climb I’m wanting to project, and the top is accessible by foot to set up a top rope. And yes we are scared of falling. Also, you really can't build a non-extending quad/equalette/sliding x. I want to start learning how to build a Top Rope anchor from bolts. Look up a quad anchor. There are many ways to set up a top rope I am in the process of renewing pretty much all nylon, webbing and sling from my rack. I spend some time considering 6mm or 7mm for anchor cordelette (I selected the ticker). Here's what I'd recommend: 30m static rope (9-11 mm) 1 or 2 25ft cordolettes 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. What else should I Slings would be nice for a bomber tree, bolt anchors, or other close together set ups and you will undoubtedly have them already The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. However, it’s a little bulkier and takes a little more As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. It’s a good idea to get a mentor or guide to give you additional or specific training with anchors if you find you have a lot of questions. My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. I liked it so far. Now I usually build anchors from the rope and two non-lockers or quickdraws. I used to feel the need to put lockers on everything when it came to anchors. As with everything in climbing there are always some exceptions. Can I get away with 8mm width on a Dyneema sling? If it's a critical point, I use a locker (or opposite and opposed non-lockers). r/ClimbingAnchors: A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. However I've seen people make their anchor many other different ways. Easier to extend for far pieces without having to use your runners. belaying with an ATC clipped to your harness, rope going to the master point, back down to climber), then the anchor will get 2x the force of the falling climber. In a system where you are clipping into your own anchor, clipping into the master point, shelf, or 2-3 strands of a quad is already redundant. There are no bolts for anchors, but there are two trees. I was taught how to do an anchor on a single sling with four carabiners. What would be the best way to utilize these trees for an anchor? (Configurations, knots, etc. 5mm tech cord) or a quadruple-length sling. I was shown to make a self-equalizing anchor (with the x) using a sling and 4 locking carabiners, and have done that since. She said that way she can watch for A little back story, I've been wanting to go outside and I've finally made some friends who want to go outside for the first time as well. Get helmets. for building the anchor it depends on the route I am climbing but I have and use everything from two quick draws to a quad. Master the girth-hitch masterpoint for quick, efficient anchor construction on multi-pitch rock climbs. This is your redundancy. Although I am curious about what around here thinks. For multi-pitch anchors there is always gonna be a belayer there, pretty easy to notice if a non-locker is being opened or dropped the anchor material. Please critique my anchor. A nearby party was using a Anyone with some reasonable climbing experience is immediately aware of how overkill the quad-anchor fervor is - especially for top-rope applications. the anchor looks fine to me, I just question its utility. On the other end of your system you Your illustration is perfectly safe, but way more complex than it needs to be. The Quad is an anchor system which self-adjusts to keep an equal force on each anchor point. Currently, I own shoes, a chalk bag, a harness, and an ATC. Wanted redundancy, limited extension, and the master point below the ledge. However, learning how to place traditional gear will give you a lot more Looking to add a sling to assemble a quad anchor for top rope climbing where it would be best to have extension over the (relatively rounded) edge. When you have some time, though, look into the debates about whether quads actually equalize things when a load is shifting. 1. <2,5% (Boulder County) and <1% (Yosemite & Australia) [Source]. Absolutely the best institutional anchor. Edit: one of the reasons 7mm cord is preferred for top rope is that the force of a fall at the anchor is always x2 if you're belaying from the ground. I have definitely used worse anchors when alpine climbing. Quads make wonderfully quick and easy TR anchors on sport routes for other climbers to run laps on. If a newer sport climber learns only one anchor I'd much rather it be the quad than a more complicated anchor that requires good judgment to safely execute. Hey guys, I've been leading in the gym for a while now and am just getting into climbing outside. Easily 9 out of 10 single pitch trad climbs I belay from above after leading. 99% of the time, for most climbers, the options for gear are good and the standard cordelette rig is fine. I use a 240 centimeter sling for trad anchors and it works for many different types of anchors as well as being lighter than the same amount of cord. 36 votes, 29 comments. Check out this article on the angle made by your anchors. Thanks for the responses. the quad allows for a little more "wandering" on the route while maintaining equalization opposed to the 8s you have where when climbing off to the side all the weight is on the further strand. 6mm appears to be rated around 6-7. Even when it looks like the two legs are equalized properly, one leg may take almost all The lack of redundancy of the master point is my only real concern. Using the Establishing top rope anchor using two quickdraws - acceptable? Hey, I'm dabbling into the basics of climbing, and am wondering if it is (and why not) acceptable to The simple overhand isn't likely to unroll on a standard quad anchor, or a 3 piece equalized trad anchor, assuming everything is dressed properly. I'm extremely new to climbing outdoors so it's good to see different anchor types I'm curious what the grigri is for on each of these. Even if it does The master point in the anchor pictured isn’t redundant, which is probably why the quad or pre equalized is preferred. I find it pretty easy to quickly whip up an anchor to fit the situation and gives me an excuse to hang around at the top of a route checking out the view! 141 votes, 89 comments. That way, if I’m hitting the crag and burning top rope laps or climbing with someone that does lead, I can simply put it on my rack and clip it to the anchor bolts. This is the same reason most climbing gyms loop their top ropes around a big cylinder and not just a couple biners. The purpose is to set up a top rope for the other climbers after a lead. Yes, it’s clear that the photo shows 3 strands captured and the illustration only 2. Blue sling runs from upper bolt to lower and back up, tied off with a clove to limit extension, and I clipped the tail to the lower just to back up the clove. As others suggested I would highly recommend more instruction. Overhand masterpoint or an equalette are both good solutions. First and foremost, climbing accidents due to anchor faliure is rare but far from unheard of. Post pictures and get feedback about the 10 votes, 41 comments. The best you can do with those anchors is ensure that the extend minimally on Blue Water / Mammut 6mx7mm cord, open cord (not a knotted loop). Second, from what I can gather most After you've created your anchor, clip the rope to it, climb above your anchor and get in a solid full strength piece in good solid rock and clip your rope to it. I just use my ultra light weight climbing G string as double duty. I am purchasing a set of Djinn Axess quickdraws and already have everything to construct a cordelette anchor. My question is: Given two fixed bolts, would it be better to use a Quad or two quickdraws to build an anchor? My guess is that the quickdraws are fine if you are just leading once and then 30 meters seems like a lot of material for an anchor considering most ropes for climbing are 60-70m. make a quad, use it as a self-equalizing bomber TR anchor. On bolted anchors I use a BD Dyneema 240cm knotted as a quad anchor. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Agreed, in my opinion the best approach is to learn a little from a book (like the climbing anchors classic) and then go with a guide to help cement the practical In addition to the vdiff and YouTube links which will teach correct and safe methods for cleaning sport anchors, if you have a local climbing gym, they may offer an Hey all, I have been climbing for some time and am looking to add some more equipment to my slowly growing arsenal but haven't been able to find what I'm People do this all the time. I'm working on building 3-piece quads. Learn how to use the self-equalizing 'quad anchor' for climbing Thoughts on a quad anchor? I've done a lot of googling but most threads on quad anchors focus on when not to use them. Unjerk: Just preference & whatever scenario is best for your gear and location. I'm thinking of using one for single pitch sport routes that have two The Quad Anchor is one of the strongest anchors out there with the most redundancy & versatility. I would recommend building the quad, it’s my go to top rope anchor. Most sport routes have both anchor bolts close together and horizontal, or have chains so both anchor points are the same height so two quickdraw's are fine. c) and want to start getting into climbing multipitch outdoors. 11's confidently and want to branch into lower grade multipitch climbs. 5kn 7mm is between 13. Doing it this way eliminates any potential factor 2 falls. 2. But lots of guides tell us to tie two load limiter knots on a quad. Share Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A Add a A collection and discussion plattform for all things concerning climbing anchors. The top carabiners are clove hitched here because it's a top rope setup and you are not there to monitor them. Super duper bomber. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. Drop the quad and just run the rope through the lockers on the slings - just like you would In my eyes, lockers are for piece of mind when no one has eyes on a system (think top-rope anchors) or areas with lots of movement (belay devices). Sounds like I'm good using this for my single pitch climbing and also to setup top ropes for climbing partners. Generally it's more comfy to have some redundancy in your anchor, but the forces on TR are extremely low so I would be fine using that as a single point anchor. I'll do the quad on multi pitch if/when that time comes. As a newer leader, I’m fascinated by what people carry for their belaying, rappelling, anchoring, self-rescue, and tools in general that you might “always” have for a For EVERY route you climb, consider the climbing/fall zone below the anchor, and adjust the limiting knots closer to the center point to cover only that much If you do a redirected belay (i. Read the book "Climbing Anchors" by John Long Get a rope backpack because it's going to be a lot more comfortable. I don't have anyone to teach me and I was hoping I could get some advice on how to learn techniques like the top down belay and setting up multipitch anchor stations, including What kind of carabiners do you use for your master point in a top rope anchor? I usually use two petzl attaches but I have a friend who always insists on using locking oval biners as he says the rope slides through more easily when they're opposite and opposed. i’m relatively new to outdoor climbing & am wanting to build a quad 16 votes, 23 comments. I'm now able to lead 5. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. I recently started climbing outdoors. Also, the locking carabiners aren’t necessary. I used it as my Hi all, I’m fairly new to trad climbing and particularly inexperienced when building anchors. I used to just use 2 quickdraws but I was reading Edit: by “same situation”, I was thinking more of the quad being the same. On a multi pitch anchor you don't clove the top 2 and Those kinds of systems are best used when the anchor consists of marginal gear. I do think the anchor is a bit messy and that there’s a lot of anchors out there that are simpler, Figured out how to setup a top rope anchor from a bunch of YouTube videos and went climbing for the first time outside. Could tie less knots by doing If the anchor is set back from the cliff, you don't need to extend the MP over the edge when you are on top, which can simplify anchors in a lot of places. Cheap, can be used for bail anchors and I use them in the winter for V-threads. Green sling is doubled over and knotted. I use the quad equalette everyday at work for top rope anchors. Pop that sucker off, slap it up, and I'm good to go. it all depends on the route I am climbing and how the anchors are set up at the top. What's the go? All of this being said it's really good to practice all types of anchor systems at home or (if possible) at a climbing gym so that you can be ready when outdoors, this his What would equalization accomplish in low load situations like top roping? A quad will be safe, but you should take the time to make sure each independent leg of your anchor can hold a truck. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. I'm thinking of using one for single pitch sport routes that have two horizontal bolts at the end. For example, with 2 slings instead of 1, with a cordette in a quad instead of a sling, or just 2 quickdraws (is the lase one somehow unsafe?) I'm curious about I've done a lot of googling but most threads on quad anchors focus on when not to use them. Post pictures and get feedback about the quality of your anchor A couple of my thoughts. Here’s how to tie it: 1. Finally, this doesn't really apply if you're climbing lead, but if you're setting up a top rope in a hike-to-the-top kind of crag that has bolts, nothing is faster than a quad. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Every quad I've rigged up has had 2 opposing biners clipped through 3 out of 4 strands in the power point. You can easily store either on your harness. Based on the reading I've I've been climbing for about 8 months now, taught myself how to sport climb outdoors after about 3 months with a friend. e. That's a problem. Was wondering if using the girth hitch is fine or if looping the sling around the anchor and tieing each loop end together with a figure 8 is materially stronger? Newish outdoor climber here: Knots weaken dyneema around 50%. You will need 20-30 feet of 6-7mm cordelette 2 locking carabiners for the rope, I use black diamonds RockLock 2 locking carabiners for the hangers, I use the black diamonds Positron This set up costs about $32 Here If you’re setting up an anchor for people to run reps on a route on top rope, you’re technically better off using lockers and a sling to I've recently had a lot of success following a Lattice rehab plan for A2 pulley strain, which largely consisted of a no-hand density "hang" protocol. If it was me, I'd use a quad sling tied as a basket hitch, but if you're swinging leads, and don't need the extra rope - your setup is good. The stance was awkward and I had limited gear (I had been using the slings to tie quads earlier). Get some Tests published in the long/gaines climbing anchors book demonstrate how statically equalized anchors like the one you mention actually distribute upwards of 80 to 90% of fall forces in common setups. Then down climb back to anchor, tie in, and commence setting up to belay the second. This will eliminate the need for nylon slings, prusik cord, and a PAS. 5 to 18kn (although I believe 18 to be a type for 8mm). xsfjs sggd zcunr gaw tyobik almk ernwp ephocx qhrzjvqh thtgr