Best belay device for lead climbing. Buy a belay device to fit the type of climbing you do.

Best belay device for lead climbing Jul 17, 2025 · Choosing the right assisted braking belay device is crucial for climbers seeking enhanced safety and control. The belay device is what keeps you or your partner safe while you’re up on the wall and take a fall, so other than a great harness I’d say that a great belay device is the second most important piece of gear you can own and learn to use well. I have been climbing for about 2 years, but only bouldering and top roping indoors, and I have only ever used a typical ATC belay device, which I am very comfortable with. In addition, you can use it to self-repel and even self-belay. Learn how to choose a belay device for rock climbing. Method 2: Belaying Directly from your Harness Attach your belay device to either your belay loop or rope loop. What’s a Belay Device? A belay device is climbing equipment that gives a belay to a climber. “To belay” is a term with nautical origins that involves securing a rope around another object, for example, a cleat, to stop it from moving. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. Feb 1, 2022 · Transitioning from top roping to lead climbing can be a big challenge. Solo toproping is not rocket science—the techniques are straightforward, and the only special gear you need is a belay device. Everything about the lead-climbing system is dynamic; from the ropes to falls, and your belaying should align. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Feb 21, 2020 · The Wild Country Revo is a complicated looking belay device that actually performs very simply in the hands of the belayer. Mar 21, 2024 · The best device depends entirely on where you want to belay (indoors only, mountaineering only, single pitch vs multi-pitch, etc) and who you’re climbing with (do they like to top rope only, project lead climbs, etc). If the belayer and lead climber are significantly different weights, this ingenious device is a no-brainer, says Rob Greenwood, while the addition of a pulley brings extra smoothness to the Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Giga Jul combines assisted braking, standard tube-style use ("manual" mode), and auto-blocking all in one single device. Dec 5, 2024 · The Edelrid Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking belay device, which means it can be used as both a traditional tube device and an assisted braking device when belaying the leader. It's a braking resistor that helps reduce the length of a climber's fall. 7 to 10. There is often a lot of debate on exactly how to belay—with this article, the debate will be answered once and for all. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. While there is a lot of gear to think of when climbing, one of the mot important things to have is a belaying device. (Caldwell drapes a headlamp strap around his neck and clips this to his device. Prerequisites for Beginners: Belay Devices & Usage: • Complete Guide into Belay Devices - Differ Aug 6, 2024 · Lead Despite advances in auto belay devices, using a traditional belay device with a human belaying partner is still seen as the safest and best alternative. Should You Use Assisted-Braking Belay Devices? Aug 21, 2018 · The Edelrid Ohm is a unique device in the climbing market. Confidently choose the right belay device. The difference with lead belaying is that rather than pulling slack out of Independent belay/rappel device reviews by real outdoors people. Speaking of your brake hand, it's not right-hand dominant like most other assisted belay devices, so left-handed Take your belay game to the next level. When the rope is weighted the angle of the device changes, locking the rope down, though, as we mentioned above, you still need to keep your brake hand on the rope. Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. They’re counting on you to keep them safe, so count on this equipment and choose the best belay device for your needs. Therefore, buying a belay device is an essential investment for climbers looking to ensure their safety and improve their climbing experience. It’s also about having the right gear and understanding how to use it. Only the basic technique is described here. This can be a safety concern if your device locks up mid crux, causing you to fall. Don’t forget to check out our climbing hardware on sale. You c Jan 4, 2024 · We break down every type of belay device and talk about where belaying started, and talk about which devices work best for your style of climbing. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions Dec 5, 2024 · If you are looking for the best belay device for lead belaying, the Petzl Neox is our favorite, and the tried-and-true Petzl Gri Gri is even more versatile. In a standard top rope setting, the belayer stands below the climber as they ascend, controlling Lead Belaying: These articles explain everything you need to know to safely climb at any indoor wall. Here’s a short rundown on the differences (and if you want a full pro and con list, jump ahead to our full belay device breakdown. Since then, I only recommend semi-assisted and auto-locking belay devices to my friends and family. In the event of a fall, expected or unexpected Aug 2, 2023 · While a static belay is appropriate for top-roping, when lead belaying you want to be mobile and give a dynamic belay. Mar 17, 2014 · The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. It provides considerable bite for catching lead falls, and it locks off by itself when your partner needs to rest, just like active-assisted brake devices. Below is a summary table of top-rated belay devices featuring innovative cam-assisted braking systems, progressive descent control Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. Jul 25, 2024 · An awesome lead belay device for paying out rope and not annoying your climbing partner on long pitches, a great addition to the GRIGRI family. Learn to lead climb, top rope and lead belay safely. Jan 20, 2014 · The top device is your primary self-belay. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or May 10, 2019 · Edelrid Ohmega - An Absolute Game Changer The Ohmega is a genuinely revolutionary piece of kit, and offers big advantages over Edelrid's existing product the Ohm in terms of weight and usability. Here are some tips and general aspects to remember when belaying with a top rope, belaying a lead climber, and multi-pitch belaying. REDUCE BRAKE-HAND FATIGUE: The NEOX assists the belayer when Jul 29, 2024 · Petzl's new Neox is a sleek assisted-braking belay device. Switching between the In this article, we will delve into the world of belay techniques, exploring their significance in climbing, the various types of belay devices available, basic and advanced techniques for climbers of all levels, common mistakes to avoid, as well as safety tips and best practices. It is a mechanical device that assists the belayer in controlling the rope while the climber ascends. With the climber secured to a top rope, the mock lead belayer can practice feeding slack without the pressure of catching the climber if they fall. Feb 27, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Here, we review and recommend the best assisted-braking belay devices for rock climbing. But what Aug 15, 2025 · Find the perfect assisted braking belay device. Jan 22, 2025 · Our review of the Edelrid Pinch gave high marks for its light weight, fluency with skinny ropes, and a reliably safe orientation. Nov 19, 2025 · For multi-pitch climbing, you’ll need a belay device, climbing shoes, a harness, quickdraws or alpine draws, and climbing protection if you’re on a trad climb. However, it does have drawbacks like A chest harness is important to hold your belay device in the correct orientation while climbing. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. While many assisted braking A description of the proper technique for lead belaying for sport or traditional rock climbing. ) Nov 2, 2021 · A belay device is like a little pulley made of aluminium or alloy that allows your partner to add quick, sudden tension to the rope by locking off the rope so that if you fall, you won’t go far. Feb 2, 2024 · Among some of the best belay devices for climbing and last but not least, the Black Diamond Belay Device works with ropes 7. This small but mighty tool plays a crucial role in your climbing experience. Dec 2, 2024 · The control provided by a belay device is especially useful when climbing steep or challenging routes, where imbalance or missteps can quickly lead to a fall. Oct 1, 2021 · Our team of experts has selected the best belay devices out of hundreds of models. In most situations, the weight of a falling climber will pull down from you How To Lead Belay Once your rope is prepped, it’s time to get into the business. However, I am looking to get into lead climbing and potentially start going outside once I'm comfortable with the basics of lead (and when New England winter allows it lol). You can use this technique to lead or top rope belay. As with top roping, the climber’s strand should exit the device from the hole We put it through its paces on both sport and trad climbing, focusing on safety, usability, and control. If you are just getting into climbing, it is difficult to tell how big of a difference the best belay devices makes in climbing. If you have a belay device that gets stuck or doesn’t work as well, it leads to the disruption of your complete climbing experience overall. Dec 16, 2022 · Instead, it’s figuring out which belay device is best amongst the myriad of belay devices on the market. 1 day ago · Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, optimized for lead climbing; for belaying both lead and top-rope climbers Integrated wheel allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay When the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the cam pivots to pinch and block the rope Feeding Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, optimized for lead climbing: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimized for lead climbing, it has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber - Cam-assisted blocking for a more comfortable belay: when the climber falls or weights the system, the rope tightens, the wheel stops spinning, and the May 26, 2022 · All forms of roped climbing require a belay device. Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. Like mock lead climbing, the best way to practice lead belaying is to have the climber still attached to a top rope, meaning that you will need a third person. This can be set up so the brake rope comes out of either the top or bottom of the belay device – choose whichever way is easier to lock off the brake rope. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. Aug 13, 2024 · The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Follow along with Gearheads Alex Quitiquit and Nils Mindnich as they dive into three of their favorite Complete Guide to Lead Belaying From basics to nerdy tips & tricks. Don't buy a belay device before reading these reviews. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. As belaying is critically important to the safety of the climber, we recommend learning proper belay technique from an expert or through an AMGA-certified course to get you going. Mar 12, 2025 · In short: After having tested almost every assisted braking device ever manufactured, I wholeheartedly agree that the Petzl NEOX is the best ABD for single-pitch lead climbing. This device is used in addition to a belay device, and we'll explain the ins and outs of how it functions in our hands-on review below. Master the pros and cons of ATC, GriGri, and passive assist systems to become a more reliable climbing partner. What on Earth is a Belay Device? If you’re new Jun 20, 2018 · Interested in the Petzl Grigri 2 belay device? Our in-depth review breaks down the pros and cons and compares it to the GriGri +. [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. The stainless steel wheel rotates freely when giving or taking slack. This page is powered by a knowledgeable community that helps you make an informed decision. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. For that reason, traditional belay devices are still used in competitive lead climbing. Other companies have been trying to Sep 14, 2020 · Ultimately the best things you can do as a beginner belayer are to get proper instruction, be open to criticism and changing of your technique, and to get practice in soon after learning. See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. Jun 15, 2012 · If you want a new way to train or work your latest project without the inconvenience of a partner, try solo toproping. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. And the rope slack is with the climber, not the belayer. It wasn’t until I made the leap for an auto-locking belay device that I really felt comfortable climbing and belaying. Belay devices come in various styles, with the most common types being tube-style devices, assisted braking devices Jul 25, 2023 · The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. Feb 3, 2022 · The self-belay device on the climber arrests the falls, not by one at the ground or anchor. Jan 10, 2018 · If you’re getting into climbing or just starting your foray into top rope or lead climbing, you get the need for a great belay device. In climbing, a belayer holds a lead climber’s rope and feeds it out as the leader advances upward. Here are 7 of the best belay devices and what makes them great as well as what you would want to think about when using them if they would be right for you. This means that belayers are much Apr 27, 2021 · The six belay devices we tested Belay devices are one of the central tools of climbing, so we took our six favorites to the cliffs for a showdown. 7 to 11 mm and won’t cost you your wallet. 3 ounces, it's also light and affordable Nov 6, 2022 · The ATC belay device is ubiquitous at gyms and crags. com : NEOX Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, optimized for lead climbing, Black : Sports & OutdoorsGIVE SLACK EFFICIENTLY: With the NEOX, leave short roping behind. "Active assisted braking" is the primary reason people pick Petzl GriGri 2 over the competition. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. Dec 15, 2020 · Of course, the way you belay does not only depend on the belay device, but also on the style of climbing. More complicated techniques are needed to solo an overnight alpine route or aid-solo a big wall. 5 mm range. Best Beginner Belay Device For Top Roping Or Lead Climbing Every device we recommend works well for both lead climbing and top roping. Once you’ve mastered the art of top roping, it’s time to learn how to lead belay. Mar 16, 2022 · Belaying may be the most critical skill you need to participate in the sport of rock climbing safely. It can be used for all climbing functions on a single rope, including lead belaying, top rope belaying, and single-strand rappelling. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). Load the rope into your belay device at this point. Weighing in at 2. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Simple and effective, it's changed climbing. We prefer to use the Avant Climbing LRS Chest Harness due to its lightweight minimalist design. The grigri can be used to belay top-rope climbing, guide climbing (belaying from above) and more commonly, lead climbing. How does it compare to other devices on the market and does it live up to the hype? Apr 29, 2024 · Don’t hit the wall without these tester-approved climbing tools, including belay devices, stick clips, cams, screwlocks, and more. Edelrid makes certain assertions about the Ohm on their website, including that “ rope handling when belaying a lead climber Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. The GriGri 2 has been a leading device on the market for years, and for good reason. Apr 28, 2025 · Learn the safest methods for toprope belaying. How does it stack up to the Grigri? We put it to the test. Fast delivery! Nov 11, 2023 · Petzl GriGri 2, Edelrid Mega Jul Sport, and DMM Pivot are probably your best bets out of the 22 options considered. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. For increased top-roping capabilities, the Petzl Gri Gri+ is a great option, and we also like the Edelrid Pinch for lefty lead belays. 1. It is one of most expensive belay devices in our review, but its Nov 27, 2024 · New Climbing Device Could Redefine Standards: Edelrid OHMEGA Makes Leading Safer While it doesn't replace a belayer, the Edelrid OHMEGA could fundamentally change the way belayers look at lead falls. Aug 7, 2025 · Belaying is a technique of managing slack in a climbing system to safeguard a climber and prevent the climber from taking a dangerous fall. Here’s how to belay your leader. Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Nothing in this Handbook is intended to conflict with the manufacturers’ specifications. Dec 20, 2023 · Amazon. Buy a belay device to fit the type of climbing you do. Rope soloing is a technique where you belay yourself instead of being belayed by your partner. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Most guides carry both the GriGri and the ATC, but in a pinch, they may rely on one device over the other. But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). Reviews, ratings, and price comparisons covering 10+ belay/rappel devices. Jun 1, 2021 · We’ll discuss whether rock climbing solo is safe or not, some common solo climbing activities, and how to find climbing partners. It also allows rappelling in both standard and auto-blocking modes. We break down key differences among the Grigri, Neox, Edelrid Pinch, and more top picks. Dec 13, 2023 · But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. May 6, 2024 · Understanding Belay Devices for Lead Climbing. Includes the pros and cons of tubular, assisted braking and Figure 8 devices. Optimized for lead climbing at the gym or the crag, the Petzl NEOX has an integrated wheel that allows you to smoothly and quickly pay out slack to the climber. Before top roping, lead climbing, or using the auto belay on your own, you must take and pass the required test or orientation first. Understanding Belay Devices: Your Lifeline on the Rocks When it comes to climbing, we all know it’s not just about strength and technique. The Grigri makes belaying easier and safer thanks to the cam-assisted braking mechanism. Verbally explain what you are doing every step of the way. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto-locking Jun 23, 2021 · I’m curious what the best belay device would be for lead rope soloing. Jun 4, 2024 · Petzl announces the new Neox assisted-braking belay device today, touting it as optimized for lead climbing. To keep it in the ideal position for braking (and separate it from the other device), connect the top device to a chest harness, a pair of slings draped over each shoulder so they cross in the middle, or a single sling. Discover the best climbing belay devices and descender available at Glisshop, featuring top brands like Petzl, Edelrid, Camp and Beal. If you're new to rock climbing, this will lay the foundation for future belaying skills. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. Stoked for climbing season? Let’s chat belay devices. It brings an added level of safety while remaining versatile and usable. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Jan 5, 2020 · All climbing and safety equipment used during any USA Climbing competition or event, including but not limited to harnesses and belay devices, must be used in full compliance with manufacturers’ specifications. Aug 24, 2018 · Belay devices are experiencing a renaissance of sorts, with more innovative options on the market than ever. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. Aug 21, 2018 · The Black Diamond ATC Pilot is a “ geometry assisted ” belay device for ropes in the 8. Knowing which belay device to use for every occasion and how to operate the device properly is key for safety and success when it comes to climbing ropes. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Jul 24, 2025 · Awesome belay technique is the most important part about being a great belayer. ) Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. When you’re the belayer, it helps you keep your climber safe while they climb. These skills are outside the scope of this article. Thoughts? Mar 17, 2022 · The basics behind the Petzl GriGri, one of climbing's most popular belay devices. These devices offer mechanical advantages that aid in catching falls and controlling rope feed, making them ideal for sport, trad, and top-rope climbing. Keep reading to learn about belay devices and how to pick the right one based on your climbing experience and the style of climbing you enjoy. Times when you may need to rope-solo include The Soloist can also be used for a top rope device. And while they’re both great for lead and top rope belaying, they aren’t exactly interchangeable. With this method, the belayer keeps the belay device attached to their harness as if it were a standard top rope belay. When the rope is weighted, the wheel stops, and the cam engages to block the rope. Feb 22, 2020 · The belay device you choose to use will depend on personal preference and the type of climbing you do. If you don't do this, the device will not auto-feed well. Grigris and tubular devices (colloquially called ATCs) both have an important role in rock climbing. The winner is a trusted classic: the Petzl GriGri 2. I’m currently using a Grigri but getting a hand free to constantly take up slack isn’t optimal. It has an anti-panic handle that locks the cam when it's pulled back too hard, adding an extra level of safety while lowering. One such vital piece of equipment is the belay device. Once your partner has tied in, grab the rope such that there’s 5 to 10 feet of slack between you and your leader. The belay device takes most of the load so your partner doesn’t have to. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. A belay device is an essential piece of equipment used in lead climbing to manage the rope and protect the climber from falling. Load your belay device. Just as there are differences between ice climbing and indoor sport climbing, there are differences in the belay devices best used for them, we list some pros/cons below to help break them down. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. Mar 22, 2024 · How to Toprope Belay Get the safest method and helpful tips for giving the best toprope belay, whether you're using an ATC or a grigri. We break it down with this guide to belaying and climbing on the sharp end. The Climbing Nomads - We explore how to lead belay safely and effectively and include some tips about position, arresting a lead fall and soft catches. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is an active assisted-braking belay device. All of these modes allow for a nearly endless number of options when lead belaying, belaying the second, or rappelling, making this the most versatile device we have used. Just as for lead climbing, the anchored side of the rope comes out the bottom of the Soloist, but of course with a top rope the anchor is above you. . Dec 15, 2021 · Any standard belay device can be used to belay from above by placing a redirect on the climbing anchor. As you climb, you may have to pull the rope through by hand, but often the rope will feed by itself once there is enough rope weight on the free Jan 16, 2020 · If lead climbing is available at your gym, be sure to ask if you’ll need to know how to catch a lead fall as a part of the belay certification test. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. rosdszm pxor cvos vdks ksnmx txfoxy hpwq ayobsp mcdjyib jdquf sktv szyt wxznaql zxgtbpn vsrevss