Top rope vs belay weight. First, visualize a top rope belay system.

Top rope vs belay weight Belaying, on the other hand, is the technique of managing the rope to secure a climber, ensuring they are caught if they fall. In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). This creates a continuous loop that protects the climber in case of a fall. See full list on mountainknowhow. Shortly after, in 2017, the Petzl Grigri belay device evolved again. During a fall the OHM increases rope friction so the lighter belayer can more easily hold the heavier climber without being pulled off the ground. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. A climber reaches the crux of the climb but can’t progress without assistance. Feb 19, 2025 · The Neox can also be used to top belay on a multi-pitch, though it wouldn’t be my first choice as I find the back-feeding of slack more annoying than with a GriGri (the same goes for top-roping). The rope goes from the climber to the top anchor and then down to you (the belayer). But with so many available, how do you decide which one is right for you? This article breaks down the most common types of belay devices, the best belay devices for different disciplines of climbing, and, of course, when to choose a Grigri over an ATC (and vice versa). The GriGri Plus comes with a learning curve and its anti-panic function doesn’t mix well with thick gym ropes, so therefore is not something I would recommend. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. May 1, 2024 · The GriGri Plus also has a switch to toggle between “top rope” and “lead climbing” modes. But it can be an appealing belay device because it offers a smoother, faster descent. 2-0. Boy using a top rope belay with climbing harness and mom belaying him on the floor using a belay device. I keep pulling them off the ground, sometimes even top roping. Aug 21, 2018 · The Edelrid Ohm is a unique device in the climbing market. Do not underestimate the importance of a solid, confident belay! A good belayer always has an eye on the climber and is ready to adjust tension or slack at any time while maintaining at least one hand (usually the stronger one) on the brake rope. Still, you can save some weight with the Petzl Attache. Belaying is the method by which a person maintains friction on a rope to keep the attached climber from falling or falling to the ground. May 5, 2025 · Top-rope climbing, a popular choice for recreational climbers, offers a safer alternative to lead climbing. You're in the right place, as we’ve dissected everything you need to know to kickstart your top-rope climbing Jun 21, 2023 · Our Selection of the 9 Best Climbing Carabiners of 2025 Comparison Table 1. The simplest way to describe top rope climbing is that two people are tied together with a dynamic rope that goes from the climber up to the top, through or around an anchor, and back down to the belayer. That rope is connected to the climber and a belayer (or multiple belayers) who controls the rope and pulls in slack as the climber ascends and slowly releases slack to lower the climber to the safety mats after the climb. Using a weight bag to reduce the difference in weight is not possible all the time (nobody wants to carry a weight bag to the crag). As the belayer, you provide a brake on the rope to prevent the climber from falling to the ground. Jan 13, 2021 · In top-rope belaying, if there are small weight differences (around 50lbs or less) between you and your climber, you will likely not be pulled off the ground so long as you are keeping tension throughout the belay. The Grigri+ features the same iconic assisted braking function but with an added selector knob that allows users to choose between two belay odes, top rope, or lead. Jun 29, 2025 · Curious about top rope vs auto belay climbing? Learn the core similarities, differences, and which style is right for your next climb in this detailed guide. Jun 4, 2024 · Neox: Rope handling amazes After the postman finally delivered us the long-awaited Neox, we headed to the local climbing gym to try out the new belay device. This is likely because of the dynamic nature of the rope as well as getting a little more extension. It’s more affordable, lighter in weight, and does an exceptional job at both top-rope and lead belaying. Wear a helmet to protect your noggin, especially if there is loose rock or ice. There are many ways to set up a top … Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Learn the basics of top rope belaying, including gear, setup, safety checks and procedures, plus the PBUS method and how to lower a climber. Dec 4, 2022 · What’s Top-Rope Climbing? Top rope climbing, or top roping, is a style of climbing where the climber ties into the end of the rope, which then threads through top rope anchors at the top of the climb and back down to a belayer at the bottom of the climbing route. It is possible to out-climb a TRUBLUE auto belay due to the lag caused by the magnets trying to recoil the slack, but they are one of the most popular auto belay systems on the market today. What is an acceptable max weight difference? Am I irresponsible as a climbing partner and belayer if I belay someone that much Jan 4, 2021 · In top-rope climbing, the climbing rope extends from your climbing harness, passes inside an anchor at the summit, and ends back at the belayer’s hands. If you have a friend who already knows their stuff, they can tie you in and belay you. Top roping is a more manageable form of rock climbing and can be taught in as little as fifteen minutes to anyone Mar 17, 2022 · While top rope belaying, belayers should stand roughly beneath the anchor at the top of the route. Though it has none of the luster, appeal or glory of climbing itself, belaying is perhaps the most important aspect of the sport. Load the rope into your belay device at this point. Dec 7, 2022 · A top rope anchor is an anchor system positioned at the top of a rock climb that holds the climbing rope. When unweighted, slack is easily paid out in a straight line through May 7, 2024 · Rappelling is a controlled descent down a vertical surface with the help of a rope, typically used in climbing to descend after reaching the top. Complete Guide to Top Rope Belaying - Tips & Common mistakes. 1mm to 11mm rope diameter. Do you mean belay off your harness as normal belay? There's pros and cons to belaying a second off your harness vs belaying off the ancho/ guide mode. Load your belay device. This technique is the cornerstone of secure climbing, whether indoors on a climbing wall or outdoors on a natural rock face. When a climber falls, having a solid top rope anchor is literally a matter of life and death. The reputation that preceded the Neox, which would be released in mid-2024, was too tempting not to try the supposed new miracle weapon from Petzl yourself. Is it possible to belay someone heavier Dec 8, 2020 · To top rope, you must wear a harness and learn how to tie a rope into your harness using a special knot. It can literally mean the difference between life and death, or at least life and serious injury. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some Kids under 14 require adult assistance and supervision on autobelays. First, belaying a lead climber involves giving slack, not taking in slack. It's a braking resistor that helps reduce the length of a climber's fall. Learn how to belay. These bolts take the force and friction in the event of a fall, though more force will be translated to the belay if the Mother and teenage son at indoor climbing wall gym. The anchor takes the force and friction of a fall. 3 Methods Of Belaying From Above There are 3 methods of belaying from the top. 1. 2 instances of large falls from near the top of the wall ending with my climber on or near the ground. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Belay Technique One of the primary differences regarding lead climbing and top rope is how essential your belayer is when lead climbing. . Most of this distance is caused by the stretch in the rope, making the fall more comfortable and ‘dynamic’. Outdoor Climbing Ice and Mixed Climbing Final Thoughts Frequently Asked Questions FIELD TRIP 1 - Top-rope Belay/Lower, Belay & Anchor Intro. By belaying from above, you halve the length of rope between the climber and the belayer when compared with a standard top rope belay, therefore halving the potential rope stretch. In addition, weight bags restrict a belayer's freedom of movement. Oct 25, 2016 · For Heavy Climbers and Light Belayers. While lead climbing, belayers should stand beneath the first bolt or piece of climber protection. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. Most gyms have basic instruction to teach and test climbers how to do this safely using their preferred belay device. Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl Neox easily feeds slack while lead belaying, and also provides a secure catch, making it our favorite belay device for belaying a leader and single-pitch climbing. Petzl Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with a Grigri Important Specs 3. It has an anti-panic handle that locks the cam when it's pulled back too hard, adding an extra level of safety while lowering. In climbing there is a big difference between lead belaying and top rope belaying! Lead belaying is a more advanced technique because adjustments may Mar 12, 2025 · The Petzl NEOX solves the critical issue with most assisted braking belay devices — unwanted rope locking when feeding slack. Students new to climbing and without prior belay experience can spend maximum time at station 1; Station 3 (Rope Ascending) will be done at Monday Night Skills for most students. If you rock climb with a rope, you need a belay device. As the climber ascends the wall, the belayer pulls the rope through a belay device, shortening the length of rope between the two. There is a big difference between belaying someone on a top rope and belaying a lead climber. You must also learn how to use a special device, commonly referred to as a belay device, to belay (or hold up) your climbing partner. Though the principles of belaying are the same whether it I do always wear belay gloves, even when I’m belaying top rope in the gym, because it makes me feel more confident - if something crazy happens I can grab the rope and hopefully hang on. Using a belay device attached to the harness, the belayer can take in slack, “hold” a climber’s fall, and lower Feb 22, 2020 · The TRUBLUE auto belay system uses magnetic braking and has a minimum/maximum weight of 22 and 330 lbs respectively. Students will enter the class and this field trip with a wide range of climbing experience. The Neox was also ideal for toprope belaying, taking in rope just as smoothly as it pays it out. - Generally creates a more social setting. Here’s how to belay your leader. Top Rope: Shown in the photo above, top rope climbing requires prior knowledge and experience of the follow through figure 8 knot and the GriGri belay device, which are attached to all top ropes in our facilities. Aren't you just transferring the wear from the top biners to the belay device? The rope has to build up friction somewhere to hold the weight. Learn the difference between the Grigri and the Grigri+. And even when using a weight bag, the belayer still has to supply the full braking force (with the associated risk of friction burns as the rope runs through belay device). Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. These free articles explain everything about top rope climbing. To embark on this journey, it's crucial to grasp the fundamental mechanics, gear requirements, and the pivotal step of obtaining top-rope certification in a climbing gym. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. Climbers spend half of their time belaying—make sure you know all of the nuanced tips on how to belay in every situation. As the climber moves upwards, the belayer takes out slack through their belay device so that if the climber falls, the belayer can Dec 13, 2023 · The GriGri can also put a lot more weight on the rope: “For the general public…what they want to do is a [single rope] rappel, which puts four times the amount of weight on half as much rope,” said Delap. Top-belaying with the device is called guide or reverso mode and offers an auto-blocking advantage on the rope if the climber were to fall. This switch changes how grabby the cam is, allowing slack to be fed easier when lead belaying. Before even touching the rock, a new climber should learn to belay. Do you want to learn to rock climb? Top rope climbing is the first step. Belaying from the top can be Jun 21, 2023 · Belaying is a critical skill in climbing. Dec 5, 2024 · The Trango Vergo is a fantastic device for belaying the leader, providing an ergonomic and intuitive way to pay out slack without compromising the brake assist. There are pre-hung ropes that hang from the top of the routes which climbers use to safely belay and lower from. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Given enough weight difference and not enough friction in the TR anchor, you absolutely need a weight sack for top rope, or you'll get pulled up when they let go at the top cartoon style. After exceeding this 150%, you should consider an extra anchor point. When sport climbing, the climber attaches the rope to fixed anchors (bolts) as he/she ascends. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). Lastly, the stainless steel wear plate on the PETZL GRIGRI + Belay Device provides extra protection for the high-wear area near the brake side of the rope. Jun 26, 2023 · Belaying, in essence, is a sophisticated method of controlling a rope to ensure a climber's safety. The OHM adds additional friction even when only the first bolt is clipped, reducing the distance of a fall which reduced the likelihood of decking. You'll likely see them in most, if not all, indoor rock climbing gyms with top-rope walls. We cover gear, setup, safety, communication and technique. Apr 7, 2021 · The over hand knot allows some isolation of rope pull from the person in the front and the back. May 14, 2024 · The GRIGRI is great for belaying both lead and top rope, and with its anti-panic handle, the GRIGRI+ is optimal for top rope and learning. A Dec 27, 2022 · The top rope secures your rope to the top of the climb or wall (hence the name, top rope). 2) Toprope belaying is doable up to 150% of your own weight. Where other units draw the user to compromise the belay by holding down a camming rope pinch, the Vergo pinches the rope by rotating the entire device when weighted. So my partner was almost 40 pounds less than me. Belays are typical done using ATCs, ATC Pilots and Grigris. An internal rotating wheel reduces friction between the rope and the rope-pinching mechanism, making it easy to feed out slack to a leader without activating the assisted braking function. Dec 28, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Sep 21, 2023 · After months of testing, our avid rock climber and resident expert found the best climbing belay devices of 2023. Top roping can be done indoors or outdoors, and is a popular style for beginners, as it allows climbers to focus entirely on their climbing technique without having to For my first purchase of a belay device, I wanted something versatile, but user-friendly. For some, that’s a worthy expense to replace their GRIGRI devices. Here are our in-depth reviews. Direct belay – this is the recommended method by climbing schools today Redirected belay – this is the method used for many years and is still common today Indirect belay These 3 methods differ in how the belay devices are being set up and how the belaying is done. Feb 22, 2020 · Belaying is an often overlooked, but essential skill to safe climbing, we share how to belay when climbing safely for top roping and lead climbing. The Best Device to Use in a Pinch Learn how to choose the best belay devices for climbing, including key factors for selecting belay equipment and climbing belay devices to ensure safety and performance. Edelrid makes certain assertions about the Ohm on their website, including that “ rope handling when belaying a lead climber Dec 15, 2021 · In situations where you would like to minimize rope stretch when top rope belaying, you might choose to belay from above. While belaying on top-rope, you should keep the rope a tiny bit loose at all times, preventing the climber from losing much height from falling, but not so tight as to help pull the climber higher. It can be used for all climbing functions on a single rope, including lead belaying, top rope belaying, and single-strand rappelling. DMM Ceros Locking Carabiner: The Best for Belaying with an ATC Important Specs 4. When top-roping, the distance fallen is minimal, therefore the fall factor is near zero. We are currently using a grigri ( they struggle with it and lead belaying cause small hands), and an ATC ( works well just no lockout) We’re looking for ideas and suggestions instead of tying off to hard points on the rock ( hard catches and they take a whiplash), them wearing a Sep 7, 2020 · The Grigri is a single rope, assisted braking belay device from climbing gear manufacturers Petzl. ATC: Which Device is Best for You? Top Rope Climbing and Belaying Lead Climbing and Belaying Multi-Pitch Climbing and Belaying Rappelling Beginner vs. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. Apr 22, 2008 · That rationale, saving rope wear, seems screwy to me. Top rope climbing (or top roping) is a form of rock climbing where the climber is securely attached to a climbing rope that runs through a fixed anchor at the top of the route, and back down to the belayer (or "second") at the base of the climb. The top rope system consists of a rope running up to a set of anchors at the top of the wall and then back down to the bottom. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is static, leading is dynamic. See the Edelrid Ohm benefits, how to use the Ohm, how the Ohm Mar 15, 2016 · While the fundamental principles of belay remain unchanged for this context, it is fundamentally different than top rope belaying in two ways. Having only used the Petzl GriGri in the past, I needed something light weight and affordable, functional for both top-rope and leading, but intuitive for a novice. Metolius Steel Auto Lock Carabiner: The Best for Top Rope Anchor Masterpoints Important Specs 5 What if I fall? With an attentive belay, a top rope climber who falls should never fall more than a metre or so. Jul 25, 2023 · The Grigri 2 improved on the older design, featuring a more compact and lightweight, optimally balanced design. May 7, 2025 · If we are belaying with a braking assisted device, or top-rope soloing, this is the locker we'll have on our belay loop. - Makes communication clearer. They eliminate the need for a climbing partner who belays the climber, belaying is manually controlling the rope to hold the climber… Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri+ is an active assisted-braking belay device. Jul 29, 2024 · And if weight in your pack is a concern, then perhaps those extra two ounces will matter, though I actually preferred the Neox’s extra heft and longer lowering handle. In top rope belaying, the climbing rope runs from the belayer’s belay device to the anchor point at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness. But before learning about each method, let’s Dec 2, 2022 · Rope Compatibility LifeGuard Belay Device The Mad Rock Safeguard has rope compatibilities for 2 functions. And safety-wise you need a belayer really on the ball. Often, these anchors are permanent (or fixed), so with a tied knot and a belay, you are permanently attached or ‘protected’ when climbing. The belayer must pay attention to the climbing rope to ensure that there’s enough slack. If a climber falls while climbing on top rope, their weight transfers from the rock to the rope. Top or Bottom? Depending on the terrain, the length of your rope and the anchor arrangement, you may choose to belay from the top or the bottom of the crag. This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. When you start to belay a lead climber you need to have someone with experience close at hand, backing you up. Traditionally, we manage this with a mechanical advantage system to help the climber complete the move. Petzl Attache: The Best Overall Important Specs 2. kN Ratings - Top Rope Vs Leader Fall Forces Most lead falls have a fall factor of 0. Belaying off the anchor makes it easier to escape the belay and is "auto blocking" but lowering the second is more involved (needs to be backed up as guide mode is sort of on off). Feb 9, 2020 · TOP-ROPE BELAYING In top-rope climbing, the rope runs through an anchor at the top of the route and then down to the climber. Belay device with cam-assisted blocking for learning, top roping, and intensive use: - For belaying both lead and top rope climbers - Optimized for top rope climbing with a lockable selector knob that allows you to choose top rope belay mode, making it easier to take up slack and providing a more comfortable belay - Stainless steel wear plate provides great durability for intensive use - Cam May 9, 2025 · Master top rope climbing! Discover what is top rope climbing, from essential knots & commands to building solid technique. Jun 19, 2023 · Discover the basic principles of belaying, and how they can be applied to top-rope belaying and to skilled lead belaying—including catching lead falls. First, visualize a top rope belay system. Belaying a heavier climber is always tough. Sure, it’s ideal to be at the same weight or even heavier than your belay partner, but sometimes you’re faced with a situation where you end up being the lighter person in the tandem. Jul 11, 2025 · We test climbing belay devices for all types of climbing. 2024 Climb Guide Harnesses, Ropes, Pro, Pads, Shoes & More Explore Feb 14, 2009 · The weight difference should not be a problem, there is usually enough friction as the rope passes through the karibiner (s) at the top of the wall, or the quickdraws. The Scenario: Top Rope Top Belay with a V Anchor In this setup: A top rope top belay system is employed, using a V anchor for stability and redundancy. Jul 19, 2022 · Wear belay gloves, especially with a heavier climber or skinnier rope or in wet or icy conditions, to protect against rope burns. Once your partner has tied in, grab the rope such that there’s 5 to 10 feet of slack between you and your leader. Nov 6, 2023 · 5 Main Differences Between Lead Climbing vs Top Rope Below are the five main differences between lead climbing vs top rope climbing. 7 and generate 2-5kN of force on the top piece of gear. Apr 2, 2024 · The top rope belay mode makes taking in slack easier and more efficient, while the lead belay mode provides greater control and security during lead climbing. Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. These articles explain how to belay using a top rope system and how to climb safely at an indoor climbing wall. com A traditional belay system involves hardware at the top of the climbing wall that secures the safety rope. How To Lead Belay Once your rope is prepped, it’s time to get into the business. Apr 24, 2023 · An auto belay is a mechanical device that is used in rock climbing to provide an effective and efficient way of lowering a climber to the ground after they have completed their climb. This girth hitch method is also seen in the Petzl Connect adjust and Petzl recommends that it be attached to the belay loop. This device is used in addition to a belay device, and we'll explain the ins and outs of how it functions in our hands-on review below. Anyone with experience belaying with this weight difference? Asking here because I'm finding limited information regarding this large of a weight difference online. One interesting quirk we noticed was the clacking noise the Neox makes when taking up slack quickly or while the rope is weighted. Apr 28, 2025 · Belaying a climber on toprope—where the rope runs from the belay device up through an anchor at the top of the climb and back down to the climber’s harness—is as straightforward as it gets. Mar 21, 2024 · Top Rope Climbing The most common roped experience climbers will have in a gym is known as top rope climbing or top roping. To account for that, we have split the field trip in two groups. When properly built, the anchor is strong enough to support a falling climber’s weight. An anchor refers to the whole system — the anchor points, the protection gear, runners, carabiners and climbing rope. They are noticeable by a long tethered lanyard attached by an industrial carabiner to a triangular and brightly colored mat Jun 20, 2018 · Interested in the Petzl Grigri 2 belay device? Our in-depth review breaks down the pros and cons and compares it to the GriGri +. So if you weigh 60kg, you are able to belay a 90kg person @ a toprope. At what point (weight difference) does the risk become unacceptable? TL;DR: Climbing with partner 80 lbs heavier. See our guide to the best climbing belay devices of 2025, including our top picks and details on belaying with two ropes, rope diameters, belaying a follower, and more. The climbing rope is redirected through a top anchor or a leader’s top piece of protection, and the belayer provides a counterweight, coupled with effective belay technique and tools, to hold or lower the climber or catch a fall. Jan 24, 2023 · Auto belays - these automated machines are great for climbing roped walls without a partner and for training endurance or doing laps on climbs, as you don't need a human belayer. Happy parenting concept image Jul 24, 2025 · The loop is used when setting up the belay device at an anchor so that the belayer can top-belay a second. Your climb starts here. Find out how to pick the right one, use it safely, and keep it in top condition for your climbing trips. This means that belayers are much Dec 22, 2022 · Key Specs of the Grigri Variations of the Grigri Pros and Cons of the Grigri Grigri vs. A good belayer will pay constant attention to the climber, watching for upward movement so they can pay the rope out at the right time. As with top roping, the climber’s strand should exit the device from the hole Feb 2, 2025 · While everyone knows that belaying is a vital part to keep climbing safe, you might feel daunted when you have to belay someone who is significantly heavier than you. The climber is tied into one end of the rope and the belayer is attached to the other. Here are some tips to help you overcome many of the challenges! This is Part 3 of 5 of the Learn To Belay Mini-series: Part 1: How To Belay With An ATC Part 2: How To Pass A Belay Certification Test Part 3: How To Belay A Heavier Climber Part 4: How To Belay From Above Part 5: How To Set Up Top Rope Learn to belay a lead climber, including how it differs from top-rope belaying. Advanced Climbers Gym vs. At $150, the NEOX tacks on an extra $40 to the GRIGRI, which is basically what you’re paying for a snag-free slack-paying experience. The force on the anchor will be the weight of the climber plus part of the weight of the belayer (around 1kN of Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. Jun 19, 2023 · Here’s what I think: The standard GriGri is the best fit for most climbers. First, if you intend to use it to execute the action of rescuing or rigging then the range of value for the rope compatibility will be 8. Jan 4, 2024 · Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. The limit at lead climbing is suggested to be the half of toproping: So it would be 125% (60kg belaying a 75kg person). 00:00 Introduction 01:18 Preparation 07:11 Belaying 13:52 Most Common Mistakes Camera & Assistance Ana bergamaschi, Charlie Farrow Sep 13, 2015 · Is the OP's question about soft catches, or is he concerned about the belayer losing control of the rope due to the weight mismatch? He wasn't really specific about why he wanted to know the max weight difference. It is one of most expensive belay devices in our review, but its Feb 6, 2023 · Although the style of climbing is similar, top-roping involves traditional belaying where a human belayer will support the rope and you communicate safety commands. Check out this short 1-minute video on using the proper top-rope belaying method: Nov 13, 2014 · 1. Setting up a secure top rope anchor is vital. Belaying from the bottom: - Makes it easier to switch between climbing and belaying. Top Rope Rock Climbing is the most basic form of roped climbing. rwqw ipmbzyqg wbne eidi gjyw qna nhuio jsplu zqu uqjkef wbeyt jsftm xyv uamme ietae