Cams vs nuts. Just as a note .

Cams vs nuts. Sep 14, 2007 · In reply to dpmUK: Prefer Nuts when the placement is good and quick. Nuts In the 2024 ANAC, there were 13 accidents caused or aggravated by pulled protection. Sep 8, 2020 · Micro cams are among the most useful pieces of gear on a trad climber's rack. Thanks, i found a pdf over there 'nuts and bolts of archery' which looks pretty informative Jan 8, 2024 · But, when climbing with absolute novices, I usually place a lot of cams because, apart from being so fast to place and versatile, I find an intimidated novice can remove well-placed cams so easily compared even to nuts. 5 ounces (128g) over the same range. Try to fiddle in nuts from a rather straining position to a splitter with no constrictions vs. Still, just like the hexentric stopper or the tri-cam, Ball Nuts are well-suited to certain areas and types of terrain. They have a runner attached to an axle, two rails and a point. He was running cheapo repop stock type chrome bbc v-covers with no dripper Sep 16, 2011 · You are right to prefer nuts/hexes. Locking and unlocking cam locks requires the use of a key. Hexagonal wedges (hexes), Tri-Camming Units (tri-cams), and even Spring Loaded Camming Devices (or SLCDs or cams) can all be used as either active or passive protection. Sep 8, 2022 · Knowing how to place climbing nuts for the best protection allows you to save your pricey cams for when you really need them, getting more mileage out of your climbing gear. com offers quality metal cam lock nut used in the lock installation. It's generally quicker to place and clean a cam than a nut. N Nuts, Hexes and Tricams for Rock Climbing https://rockclimb. Learn how to place hexes; how to use them passively (like a nut) or actively so they cam into cracks. Read more: The detailed guide to installing a cam lock. ) Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. These Alloy Offsets are tapered Jun 30, 2022 · How to place cams and nuts / wires so they stick! The video also covers the basics of organising gear on your harness and considerations when placing kit into the rocks. 8 vs 11. I am pretty sure that when I was starting to put a rack together 20 plus years ago the advice was to get a set of nuts and a few hexes, don't worry about Aug 3, 2022 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Learn how to place climbing cams. For some, nuts and bolts are an afterthought, while Sharing the data I had to dig for. Apr 4, 2025 · Micro Cams vs. I also use them to supplement my rack if a particular route has a LOT of one size and I need extras, or the placements aren't quite perfect. Getting into leading trad routes? Learn how to choose types of passive protection, such as chocks, nuts and hexes. Now, all else being equal, to build said hanging belay May 7, 2020 · Whilst we all happily clip wired nuts with quickdraws, extending cams by clipping a quickdraw to the thumbloop seems to be advised against in some quarters. But if the flake shifts, there is a much greater chance a cam will open up and hold the fall. Same and Next Day Delivery. For stable structure and higher security, CNClathing. I am pretty sure that when I was starting to put a rack together 20 plus years ago the advice was to get a set of nuts and a few hexes, don't worry about I am somwhat confused about the places of hexes in a modern trad setting. Where as the 475 is mid to upper rpm range. However, you should be thinking about this checklist each time you go to place a cam or slot a nut, and then making micro-adjustments to maximize each one. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. This article explains everything about using climbing nuts: placing, racking and removing them. Video Transcript Nuts and cams are the bread and butter of any track climber but how do you know which one to place and when behind me here we have a pretty textbook nut placement what we're looking for really when we place nuts in rock is V shaped constrictions that will sort of match the shape of the nut I would give that a seven out of 10 rating but for Feb 1, 2025 · A cam lock nut alternative is often used depending on what type of furniture or fixing is being worked on. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the The most common types of passive protection are nuts or stoppers. c Jan 20, 2021 · A typical trad rack includes a set of nuts and a set of cams, though a double set of cams (BG 0. Thanks to LELO for partnering with us. Since placement possibilities in rock are infinite, it’s rare to find perfect circumstances for each of these categories. This article teaches you how to place stoppers and cams. Learning how to place trad gear is an essential skill as you progress as a climber. Pros: Stronger than similar cam sizes; replace the use of knifeblade and lost arrow pitons. video ---------- Although "Rock Climb" will have more than 100 videos (7 hours+ of content), the program is designed to include maximum Feb 18, 2021 · If you're referring to the Screaming Eagle torque cam, they're on opposite ends of the performance scale. #shorts #climbingNuts Vs Cams2K Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. Nuts Or Cams? James Pearson’s Trad Climbing Tips | Climbing Daily Ep. If a climber is going up a 5. Having a tiny cam you can rely on to protect otherwise unprotectable sections of rock can make the difference Jan 8, 2021 · This does make a difference, as pocket holes will be weaker and cam-locks stronger in solid wood due to the surface area of end-grain that would pull out in a failure. Jan 4, 2024 · As a result, the Ball Nut is not often seen on a climber’s trad rack today. However, if you’re on a route where nuts work as well as cams, you’re better off leaving the smaller cams at home – especially on routes where weight matters such as aid climbing and alpine climbing. And a cam generally fits more placements than a nut. Nuts Buying Guide Double Cap Read Time - 9 minutes May 2020 Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. So often people 'exaggerate' the camming ranges of BD cams and ignore the comparison of useable ranges. 2452 EpicTV Climbing Daily 292K subscribers Subscribe Jan 8, 2024 · After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems that cams are the go to method of protection, even for beginners. Jan 8, 2024 · After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems that cams are the go to method of protection, even for beginners. From the simplest bolt-on street cars to Top Fuel dragsters, we love the idea of adding horsepower, cornering harder, or stopping faster than before. An expert climber saves their cams—the more complex and expensive active protection—for situations where passive pro simply won’t work, like in perfectly parallel cracks or when speed is of the essence on a long pitch. pulling the screw head out vs the whole barrel of the cam-lock. Lots of amazing classic routes were established long before cams became the norm, or even were available. When I Aug 6, 2025 · Nuts vs Cams #rockclimbing #climbing. The only difference with some Mathews bows is you might have to shim the cams vs rest movements. C. I recnetly ran into just that issue and rockers were weaingout prematurly due to that issue requiring valve adj wne you should ot need to with an hyd cam. Passive Protection Nuts Nuts come in a range of sizes and most nuts are colour coded for quick identification. I carry offset nuts far more Better to spend time finding a good placement for the nut down lower and preserve the cam, then be getting pumped 20 feet run out staring into a dead flat and parallel horizontal crack with nothing but nuts. Oakley, Emmett, and Rachele all say they typically go with cams over nuts, for ease of placement and removal, and the fact that it’s less likely to lift Jun 2, 2003 · The dynamic forces caused by a nut and cam are just about the same (it depends on the cam angle and the angle of the nut). 🥜 Nuts = lightweight, affordable, and easy to carry. They’re commonly used in trad (traditional) climbing , aid climbing , and big wall climbing to protect climbers from falls by anchoring the rope to the rock. What do you like about hexes? What are your favorite hexes? What features do you look for? I am interested in them and want to learn from people with experience (and no one I know is into them or uses them). Which you'll understand when you're on a sustained 50m splitter finger crack. We break our first cam at the end!👉 Learn and SHOP at https://www. The quick-release mechanism consists of the lever/cam/skewer assembly, two small conical springs; and the adjusting nut (acorn nut), as shown in the photo below. M. In other words, don't take this stuff seriously at all Apr 18, 2025 - Trad climbing opens the door to the adventure of starting a climb well before the sun comes up and stumbling back to the car way after the sun goes down. Oct 28, 2016 · From cams to nuts to hexes, learn the basics of trad gear with tips for buying your first rack. A cam has three or four lobes mounted on an axle. We have all kinds of really cool cams, and other styles of chocks/nuts/whatever. Due to their moving parts, cams fall into a classification of climbing gear known as “active protection. mcawle 07 May 2020 In reply to cragtyke: Jan 9, 2025 · Cam locks secure furniture, cabinets, and lockers with a simple yet effective mechanism, using parts like ZDC2 L brackets, offset cams, and housing nuts. This is because offset nuts are at their best where cams don't work at all, namely in pin scars, less parallel-sided cracks, and small flaring pots. P. e. I climb in new England do you think it's worth investing into? Have a set o dmm nuts and love them. A. ly/3clZ1pcAt last! I’ve been waiting to do Nuts are an essential for every trad climber. Mar 15, 2017 · > Americans love their cams, and will carry the very small ones over a set of nuts. Jun 11, 2012 · I grew up trad climbing in Australia in the 90s where bolts were something only occasionally seen as a rap anchor and the standard rack looked like this: 2-3 sets of nuts 1 Full set of slung hexes up to #9 or #10 3-6 cams Lots of knotted slings and loose biners I recall only once or twice seeing Joint Connecter Bolts (JCB) are regularly used in furniture making along with Barrel Nuts, Joint Connector Nuts (JCN) and Minifix Cam and Dowel. In this article, we discuss when to use a climbing nut versus a cam, plus how to place climbing nuts for your safety and confidence on the crag. Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. There are two types of protection used in climbing: Passive protection: Gear without moving parts. I thought I'd address that. Worked perfect to cover plenty of placement options and get me comfortable before going full trad. They want to plug and go with a cam. Play safe folks! May 31, 2020 · Want to buy me a coffee or the boy a dog treat?! http://bit. ly/3vhJwabOr buy a Sling Mountain T Shirt?! http://bit. Nuts and cams are the bread and butter of any track climber but how do you know which one to place and when behind me here we have a pretty textbook nut placement what we're looking for really when we place nuts in rock is V shaped constrictions that will sort of match the shape of the nut I would give that a seven out of 10 rating but for me totally good to give it a little I consider offset cams a specialty piece and rarely carry them. Generally, active pro is larger, heavier, and more expensive, but it also fits into more places than passive pro. Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. You want a combination of both. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. Jan 6, 2020 · As small cams have improved, more climbers have chosen to carry and place far more cams on a pitch than nuts, and it's this generation's cam-centric climbers that have thrust offset nuts into the limelight. Then go for the cams. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. As a result, climbers tend only to place nuts where cams don't fit, and for this purpose, offset nuts work far better than traditionally shaped models. What are the pros and cons of small cams vs nuts? (besides the super-obvious fact that cams are cams, I guess) It was recommended by an instructor operating out of Joshua Tree/San Diego. hownot2. We give you lots of tips on how NOT to use cams and a few tips on how to do it. The Tricam Evos have a beveled side so they are worth the money as it gives you an entire extra placement per piece. The quick-release mechanism sometimes must be removed from the hub, for example when overhauling the hub. Any time you spin wrenches, you’re likely loosening and tightening fasteners. Building your first trad rack? 🧗‍♂️ #MECstaffer Josh is here to break down the two key types of pro. Grab a set of nuts to start and practice placement. The front of the cam lock will remain flush with the front of the enclosure in which it’s installed. Remember to check out our selection Sep 16, 2011 · In the sizes that nuts are available on wire, then I think nuts are better, but if the question were hexes versus cams, when getting to say a 2. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbing. In the most commonly used sizes, one can carry 7 ULMC cams and, even with the new C4s, save 4. Learn about the two main types of active climbing protecction (pro) including the ubiquitous cams and the less common spring-loaded wedges. Sep 7, 2025 · In the vast world of the automotive aftermarket, enthusiasts have explored the boundaries of vehicle modification. The average useable range per cam is actually larger for the ULMCs (11. " Question for the rock climbers among us; in terms of stoppers, do you prefer nuts or cams? Oct 24, 2024 · Editor’s Note: Cams vs. ago • Edited 5 yr. Just as a note Ball nuts offer protection in thin cracks, filling the void where even the smallest cams are too big to fit. Is this because of a higher risk of failure or deformation of the wire? The wire on most cams seems to be thicker than on most nuts. Learn how to place, remove and rack climbing hexes. That said, sektion cabinets have metal cam nuts, maybe you can request spares with that part number. 2 - 2) is more typical. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. These pieces must be placed differently according to the application desired. Tri‐Cams are handy pieces of protection that will fit in places no other pro can. Find it difficult to justify standing still for ages trying to fiddle in nuts or hex's when a cam can be placed in seconds. Gear Placements – Hexes and Tri Cams The judgement we need to select a placements for Hexes and Tri cams is very similar to selecting a nut placement. Dec 20, 2023 · On the Archery talk site there is a sticky tuning thread in the Bowhunting section. Personally, I started with a set of BD nuts and a yellow and orange Metolius power cam. This article explains the physics of how climbing cams work, and also how to place, remove and rack them. Preparing some of my "nuts" and "cams" for trad climbing in Czech Republic comments Top Add a Comment muenchener • 5 yr. They are comprised of two halves: 1 day ago · We tested all the best climbing cams available in 2025 and, like all rock climbing gear, we found that the best piece of gear for you will Sep 12, 2014 · Offset cams, nuts and hooks have worked perfectly fine for nearly every route I have climbed. If I climbing on the East Coast, my standard rack is nuts 4-11, 7 cams, and maybe micros. Jul 12, 2007 · Serious question re: cams vs stoppers for a hanging belay In somewhat dubious terrain that is just a bit less than perfect for placing gear (ie, large but broken blocks etc) you have to build an anchor for a hanging or semi-hanging belay. 7). And despite their superior strength, I am still searching for the opportunity for when I actually need my set of BallNutz. Neil Gresham gives us a masterclass in the basics of placing nuts as Trad climbing protection. Aug 5, 2020 · A lock nut is a special type of nut that won’t loosen even exposed to vibrations, according to the various applications, a wide array of lock nuts come in different designs. Here we’ll discuss the types of lock nuts and how do lock nuts work. Choice depends on your riding style Aug 7, 2025 · Understanding Active vs Passive Protection Nuts & Stoppers: Simple, Reliable, Life-Saving Camming Devices (Cams): Versatility with Responsibility Ice Screws: Trusting Steel on Frozen Water Building Anchors: Principles that Save Lives Field-Proven Protection Placement Tips Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them Final Reflections from the Vertical Nov 16, 2021 · How Cam Locks Work While there are different types of cam locks, they all work in a similar way. The Virtues of Ball Nuts Ok, you are still skeptical that these are going to be useful for you? Consider the following for Ball Nuts when compared to the popular Metolius Master Cams in comparable sizes 0 and 00: Ball Nuts… are considerably lighter are significantly stronger have greater size range are much narrower and therefore fit in more places are more compact on the rack and in the In this category you will find products related to Cam lock nut At Furnica you get the highest quality Cam lock nut at the best price. … Read More Aug 3, 2025 · Nuts Vs Cams. Setting up a top rope from a cam (or abseiling off one) is a seriously bad practice due to the ability of cams to walk into or out of cracks when subjected to the "sawing" motion of a belayed rope. All of them involved a failed cam placement. However, after all the climbs I've done, I can tell you that Pitons are where it's at. 5 cam or over then it would be a financial decision for me. Small cams have vastly improved over the years, and most climbers place far more cams than nuts on any given pitch. (I. 13 crack they don't want to stop and fiddle with a nut. Choose from our selection of cam nuts, including dowel nuts for wood, recessed joint clamps for wood, and more. They can be used as passive protection if the axle is lower than the rest of the piece; in this orientation, they make for sharply angled nuts. May 2, 2020 · This video examines the basics of placing rock protection including:-Placing cams-Placing nuts-Placing pitons Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are some of the most interesting, useful and well-engineered pieces of climbing gear made. 5 days ago · The skewer is a rod which fits inside a hollow hub axle. I'm more likely to use cams over nuts, since nuts can be finicky, but when you want 'em and you have 'em, you'll be glad. The real magic begins when you turn the tri‐cam around, set the point in a slight dimple or Most trad climbers carry a range of cams and nuts on every route to be able to fit the wide variety of crack sizes and shapes. Slap in a cam. After reading a recent thread about putting together a first rack and watching a YouTube video where Pete Whitaker takes a novice climber out for his first trad lead, it seems that cams are the go to method of protection, even for beginners. The HD cams won't give you the engines full potential due to epa constraints, compared to aftermarket brands. Generally use whatever I can place fastest, so use cams regularly, unless there is a slot which I can see a nut will just slip into without faffing. May 7, 2020 · Whilst we all happily clip wired nuts with quickdraws, extending cams by clipping a quickdraw to the thumbloop seems to be advised against in some quarters. Sep 27, 2025 · Cams vs nuts is not a competition; it’s a strategic choice. With advancements in technology and design, climbers now have access to more efficient and reliable gear that enhances safety and performance on the rock. Nuts “ Nuts ” or stoppers fit in many thin placements where even the smallest cams are too big, and they're quite a bit less expensive than an active camming device. For an additional 5% off, use promo code JUBILEE5 when you checkout LELO for select items (even if they’re on sale). Jun 13, 2018 · I see hex nuts all the time for sale online but I dont know anyone with one. The torque cam is low to midrange rpm band, geared toward gaining some passing power, two-up, etc. That is an insane amount of gear. Nuts are passive protection devices, meaning that their holding power comes from their wedge shapes, cleverly placed in natural slots and constrictions (as opposed to cams, which actively expand under load to grip the rock). Nuts and cams are essential types of climbing protection devices used to create anchor points on rock walls. Cam locks are installed directly inside the front of an enclosure. Active protection: Gear with moving parts. This means that the cam will work Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. This will teach you far more about trad climbing strategy, placing gear and the intricacies of placements on different rock types and routes, than Jun 23, 2024 · In conclusion, the evolution of sport climbing equipment from nuts to cams has greatly impacted the climbing industry. Each lobe is shaped according to a mathematical logarithmic spiral, so the angle between the lobes and the rock is always the same, no matter how retracted the cam lobes are. The reason for this is that cams, from all different manufacturers, have achieved a size and range to make Ball Nuts more or less obsolete. Generally I use standard cams (some combination of C3s, C4s & Mastercams) but use offset cams on certain routes in certain areas like Yosemite, Index & JTree. Best avoided altogether but if ever used they need to be placed and watched extremely carefully. Whilst we all happily clip wired nuts with quickdraws, extending cams by clipping a quickdraw to the thumbloop seems to be advised against in some quarters. Aug 19, 2019 · 30 Packs Furniture Board Cam Fitting with Dowel and Pre-Inserted Nut, Metal Cam Lock Nuts for Cabinet Drawer Dresser and Wardrobe Furniture Panel Connecting, CLN-02M. ago Video game and anime related cartoons and animations! Weird, awkward, and twisted. Whether placed by a novice or professional climber, none of the pulled protection was a nut, hex, or other passive gear. Aug 21, 2020 · They can be a cheaper bail piece, they can double as nuts, and they are great for anchors with a good stance to help save your cams for the leader. John Biggar - MIC May 7, 2020 · Whilst we all happily clip wired nuts with quickdraws, extending cams by clipping a quickdraw to the thumbloop seems to be advised against in some quarters. In my own climbing career, I’ve been as guilty as anyone when it came to magical thinking around cams. Aug 5, 2009 · Another possiblity is if hes ot running valve covers with stock drippers that collect oil and allow it to drip directly onto rocher stud-nuts-balls for better oiling. As a disclaimer, this article is for reference purposes only and is not a We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. But, light-hearted, humorous, and sometimes, even cute. Which piece uses plastic cam nuts? I’ve only seen metal ones. y6a6t fsfnu blyd bc7s oij js3zb rgo dknt qo1 e8x5e