Short fixing with grigri. If you are on a 30-pitch route and it takes .

Short fixing with grigri. 2,586 likes, 155 comments - alpinesavvy on December 16, 2023: "Grigri rappel, 1 of 4 (READ CAPTION) ⤵️ . It is used to belay, to attach the rope, to tie-in, to abseil, etc. I lost my atc years ago, haven't needed one for a while. Jul 20, 2023 · I use one of these attached to my harness on a fixed haylard and a seprate ascender with a foot loop. I had never heard of short-fixing before, happy to have discovered a new climbing discipline though. The main difference is Feb 10, 2025 · Tangentially related, I used to short fix with the revo but doing pendulums was very difficult as slowly feeding rope under load is difficult - also, I could always lock the device but the device would also unlock if I tried to “lock down” the rope, as I would with an atc. I can't imagine Jul 25, 2023 · An Overview of the Petzl Grigri The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. Apr 4, 2012 · One way to move faster on long routes - Short-fixing is an experts-only technique that essentially separates a climbing team into two roped soloists via a knot at an anchor, allowing the climbers to move simultaneously. Dec 23, 2022 · Simul-climbing and short-fixing can help experienced climbers move fast (and stay warm!) on long routes. Used to use a modded grigri-1 with a loop on the end to do this. If you are on a 30-pitch route and it takes Short fixing - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. In this short video, you’ll learn how to: position your thumb & index correctly ☝️ use the tunnel grip while repositioning 🔁 lock off the rope for safe holding 🔒 👉 Save this tip & check out my coaching if you want to climb Nov 23, 2024 · The GriGri is a very smooth device, much smoother than the Madrock, but I still controlled my descent rate with the grip of my break hand on the tag end. ” The leader clips the rope to an anchor point and starts leading the next pitch while the follower ascends the rope. It's most commonly used on one-day ascents of big walls, or to speed up the process during multi-day ascents. A suggestion to avoid this would be to use a short swaged loop of wire cable (like a super-heavy duty rivet hanger) doubled through the Grigri eye and then clipping both ends of the loop into the screwgate. Thinking about obtaining some new climbing equipment? If that's so, here's how often should you replace your trusty grigri. (“Extended” rappel, get They rarely ever have anyone out on the floor to monitor climbers. Compact and lightweight, it can be used with single ropes from 8. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. Jan 17, 2025 · 1,659 likes, 65 comments - happening_adventures on January 17, 2025: "A short self rescue situation! Can you do it with less gear? How to get your hair, clothing, etc. Their route, 'Round Trip Ticket' (M7 AI5+ A0), must rank as one of the most remarkable feats of Alpinism of all time regarding difficulty and especially in style. I believe the term Pakistani Death Loop was coined after Timmy O'Neill took a 100ft fall while short fixing on the Nameless Tower in Pakistan in 2000. ) to extend it. I wasn’t aware of people short-fixing using it in the 1980s but it’s certainly a possibility. Partner then unties the fixing knot and raps both strands on the Guide with a fireman belay. With a single the GriGri/microtraxion combo is the go-to. The belayer hauls and belays while the leader climbs. some "basic" doubts??? - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Feb 22, 2012 · Traditional Short Fixing Short fixing strategies have been developed and employed primarily in Yosemite, where bolted belays are often established about 150ft apart. Making a high-clip generally requires 3-5 pumps of rope. When the last person reaches the end of the short strand, they start adding material (cordelettes, slings, etc. Jun 13, 2017 · TLDR; Choose the GriGri + if you use skinny ropes, have worn out GriGri's before, are frustrated with the cam tension, or want an extra piece of mind with an anti-panic handle. Fixing isn’t always the best strategy. ' Read Just fix one strand of the rope to the anchor after threading the rope through the rap rings, send the grigri climber down that strand, second climber then will undo the fixed knot and rap normally with his/her atc. Oct 16, 2020 · Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. Using both a Grigri and a standard belay device offer advantages in many climbing situations. Fascinating. READ MORE HERE. The general idea is that the leader arrives at a bolted belay and sets up an anchor, but he still has maybe 40ft of rope left. Jul 5, 2023 · The last person rappels single strand on the long strand, ideally on a Grigri so they can go hands free. so standup in the loop, pull the line tight through the grigri, sit down and move the ascender up and stand up again. For rappels fix the rope at the midpoint and the first climber raps a single strand on the Grigri. Make sure you're using it right with these simple steps. Short Fix, then self belay up the pitch above. Mar 8, 2017 · Arrive at an anchor. Short-fixing. Short fixing flange – Montesa Cota 348,349, Enduro, Cappra 11,86 € IVA incluido Dec 13, 2023 · Delap notes: “One way to fix the ice problem is the Freino Carabiner (the $45 carabiner that keeps the GriGri in a position that’s better loaded). We knew of more efficient methods with 3 people that involved short fixing and using only two ropes, but, alas we are mere amateurs and we decided to do what had worked for us in the past and use three ropes. That's another plus for the grigri - you're ready to descend once you reach the top. Mar 22, 2024 · Rather than start on the ground floor of fix and follow, let's take it from the top: In October 2023, Alan Rousseau, Matt Cornell and Jackson Marvell climbed a new route on the 2700-metre North Face of Jannu (7,710 m). Our strategy was to short fix everything, and to just really go for it. Sep 7, 2020 · The Grigri is a single rope, assisted braking belay device from climbing gear manufacturers Petzl. It is helpful to count them when climbing hard so you don’t come up short! It’s better to feed out too much slack than to short rope yourself when trying hard. 90 likes, 11 comments - verticalnetwork_coach on June 9, 2025: "Many climbers make common mistakes while belaying with a Grigri – and don’t even notice. Follower is belayed in guide mode. 9 liebacking, which take all of a couple minutes to run up, so taking several extra minutes to set up a short fix might not be paying off in the long run there. On doubles a Megajul makes a passable replacement for a GriGri, but looking for thoughts on the progress capture part of the equation. They don't have enough bouldering mats to adequately cover the floor, so they are constantly being moved around, which is obnoxious. Reply reply [deleted] • Short-fix and follow - short-fixing on big walls, the leader simply pulls up slack to self-belay before fixing the rope. Mar 23, 2024 · The GriGri is the popular assisted breaking devices, but is often used incorrectly. The GriGri is loaded upside-down onto an anti-crossloading biner on my belay loop and is held upward using a neck bungee clipped to a small piece of cord through the GriGri sideplate. . I agree with others that your weights are not too far apart. Jun 4, 2021 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jul 12, 2025 · Check my full step-by-step guide on How to Rappel with a GriGri Belay Device, the holy grail of belay devices. 5 to 11 mm. See here; AAJ article And I've never heard the term American Hero Loop. Apr 6, 2023 · Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. Mar 17, 2022 · The basics behind the Petzl GriGri, one of climbing’s most popular belay devices. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine climbers. If you fix a few pitches of overhanging rock, you’ll have to jumar a seemingly endless free-hanging rope Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Dec 2, 2013 · Petzl has made an effort to educate users, but the bad habits of devotees are difficult to break, and with the release of the Grigri 2 in 2011, it's more important than ever to learn (and teach) proper techniques for this ubiquitous device. I have a few ideas, but don't want to stifle the discussion, so give me the best strategies you have. Jun 9, 2025 · 88 likes, 11 comments - verticalnetwork_coach on June 9, 2025: "Many climbers make common mistakes while belaying with a Grigri – and don’t even notice. Mar 29, 2019 · If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can’t rappel in the normal manner, because only one strand of rope fits in your device. I remember starting to hear the term in the early 2000's. Learn the difference between the Grigri and the Grigri+. The belayer/follower then begins climbing, and leaves the GriGri set up in the same configuration. He is used to not bringing a GriGri or Cinch because they are too heavy to lead with. Unsure about your self rescue or rescue skills? Check out our May 1, 2024 · Are you about to buy a Petzl GriGri and wondering which model you should choose: the Petzl Gri Gri or the Petzl GriGri+? In this post we'll list the differences and help you decide which belay device is best for you. I've done similar, though I wouldn't be surprised if somebody came in and told me that was an absolutely horrible thing to do by current best practices. Apr 10, 2025 · Although it seems perfect, the NEOX still falls short of the GRIGRI in some ways. (price does not matter in this discussion) I'm mainly concerned about the cam engaging too often when lowering or due to rope drag which could get frustrating. The key to climbing fast on Yosemite’s big walls is to employ a tactic known as “short fixing. Feb 15, 2025 · My first aid solo with GriGri - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. They will spend around half their time climbing with a traditional belay and the other half leading on self belay while the seconder jumars and cleans the pitch the leader has just finished. The Physics of GriGri | When does No-Hands Belay Fail? The Physics of GriGri | When does No-Hands Belay Fail? 143K Dislike Nov 25, 2020 · If there’s no lowerouts or pendulums required to clean the pitch then the leader should pull up the excess slack in the lead line before fixing the line. They allow parents to let their children run around underneath the bouldering walls, run on-top of the bouldering walls, and generally wreak havoc. The belayer can then re-sort the lead rope so the full length is available. Test cases included four rope conditions—new, used, dry, and wet—as well as comparisons to other devices presently in use for technical rescue, such as the Petzl Rig (2023f). Also keep in mind that other manufacturers have been working on fixing the Grigri's shortcomings - the Cinch, SUM and Eddy all have small difference that may work better (I really like the Cinch myself) Dec 22, 2022 · Discover the side-by-side comparison of the GriGri vs ATC belaying devices: history, pros and cons, best use. out of a grigri when descending. Even people who have safely used the GriGri since last century have occasionally gone into “GriGri Lock”, grabbing the cam open in a surprise fall. 66K subscribers Subscribed Oct 4, 2024 · A GriGri needs a well stacked rope to feed smoothly, so organise the rope before the leader sets off, particularly on hanging belays—a long hanging rope makes feeding the rope very tricky. Before that I was using a mini-trax and an ascension, but it took more time to take off those two and slap on a grigri to lower than it did to climb the route (short routes in that area). Mar 21, 2011 · Has anybody used the GriGri2 as a solo belay device yet? I've used the original grigri for a long time when short-fixing on el cap, and I assume the grigri2 will work just as well The main reason why I don't agree with short fixing at that spot is the first 30 or so feet of the next pitch are easy 5. I taught a couple to multipitch (big dude, tiny lady) and they did great with the technique. If you need to get down a rope, here are two options. And I excel at excel. First, since it is a little heavier, it sits a little strangely in a regular pear shaped carabiner while belaying. 3 days ago · clove hitch for rope solo - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. Feb 11, 2010 · Chris Mac is curious to see how this works for short-fixing on big wall speed ascents. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern belay device like a Grigri or “guide-mode” style belay device. Jun 2, 2024 · An extended rappel works great with an autoblock “third hand” rappel backup. Otherwise pick the GriGri 2. Using the wrong diameter can compromise safety when grigri for rappelling. Also can be difficult with fixed lines. Jan 16, 2025 · For rappelling you can either fix the rope a halfway and then the first person raps on a Grigri, second person un-fixes the line and raps on an ATC, or you can put the ATC on both strands as usual which functionally fixes the strands and the first person raps on a Grigri. The Grigri met the test standard in all cases Apr 21, 2020 · 'The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking (meaning it will help the belayer control the rope should the climber fall). They keep control of the short strand by clipping it to a quick draw on their harness. Aug 6, 2021 · Not sure which belay device to get? We tested the Petzl GriGri 2 and Black Diamond ATC side-by-side to help you know which is right for you. In this short video, you’ll learn how to: position your thumb & index correctly ☝️ use the tunnel grip while repositioning 🔁 lock off the rope for safe holding 🔒 👉 Save this tip & check out my coaching if you want to climb Jun 11, 2024 · 33 years after revolutionizing how climbers belay each other with the launch of the GRIGRI, Petzl is taking it to the next level with the NEOX—a cam-assisted blocking belay device that features an internal wheel that makes it easier to pay out slack. repeat until tI reach the top of the mast. The leader climbs higher, using up the rope, until there is a small loop of rope in the belayer's hand between the GriGri and his or her tie-in point. Simple, fast, everyone is always backed up. Is the Grigri entirely hands-free for rappelling? Mar 5, 2018 · Would like to get thoughts on progress capture options when simul-climbing on doubles. Climbing and mountaineering carabiners are made of Zicral, an aluminium and zinc alloy that is very strong and lightweight. May 5, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Please note that short-fixing is an advanced climbing technique and is not suitable for beginners or anyone new to trad climbing. Abstract This study subjected the Petzl Grigri (2023a) to a modified British Columbia Council of Technical Rescue Belay Competency Drop Test Method (Subcommittee 2019). Does the grigri put twists in the rope by itself or something? Or, am I just missing small twists in the rope when flaking? Almost makes me Oct 15, 2017 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. NEOX Comes From A Strong Pedigree Before we dive into what makes the NEOX tick, we need to review some historical moments that have led us to Mar 20, 2025 · The original Grigri I was given is better for top roping than the Neox, but if buying I'd prioritise better performance lead belaying than top roping. The ascent Jun 18, 2023 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Note On terrain where the haulbag is likely to get stuck, it is recommended that the leader hauls the bag before short-fixing the next Jun 24, 2021 · Pre-grigri, I used a clove-hitch to rope solo to bad and good effect: it hampered efforts to free climb but held the resulting fall. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. I did do this with my hair stuck in the device, but it’s difficult to teach while I am looking at the ground, so bandana it is. It turns out, excel is better for numbers, but Jun 15, 2012 · Short-fixing is an experts-only technique that essentially separates a climbing team into two roped soloists via a knot at an anchor, allowing the climbers to move simultaneously. While old-school devices such as the figure eight and ATC still have their place in the climbing world, the Jun 2, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. One key to using the GriGri as safely as possible is to make sure we choose the right carabiner to use with it, as certain carabiners can create risks that can be easily avoided. It Nov 11, 2018 · Several times now, I've been belaying a leader with a perfectly flaked untwisted rope and had twists come up seemingly from nowhere, leading to the worst short rope ever as the twist hits the cam while I'm trying to hold it down with the thumb technique. Do not use an ohm while trad climbing. See my website article with all the details on this! Leave a comment with the words “Grigri rappel” and I’ll DM you a link. Jan 25, 2020 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The lever on the device is either on or off, no in between. You can still fix your line and rappel single strand, however, unless I'm sorely mistaken. May 12, 2017 · And then there’s all the other stuff, like an ascender, for self belaying when short fixing or soloing (the Grigri is NOT designed for rope soloing, and an expert understanding is required in order to grasp its terminal limitations), light hauling, lowering heavy loads, as an autoblock when bringing someone up a climb. After making a high-clip, one must resist the urge to cinch tight through the GriGri which can cause short, abrupt falls. Be careful with the hanging rope method suggested above as wind Dec 5, 2024 · The Petzl GriGri is an active assisted-braking device that performs well in every belaying and lowering task, earning our highest honor as the best belay device on the market. The autoblock functions as your “third hand” rappel backup, and let you go hands-free on the rappel at any time. Well, you're certainly not going to be double-strand rappelling. Comparison = excel chart. Method 1 (of 4): Fix the the rope to the anchor . Sep 13, 2010 · Cinch vs GriGri 2 - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. This also means less food and water is needed on the route. My go to device these days for rope soloing is an unmodified 3rd generation GriGri. I have lots of belay experience with regular grigri's and ATC's but I want to get my own grigri. Short-fixing with a grigri and single ascender? what are you even talking about? Leading and following are completely different systems This is a horrible method for anything less than vertical. Always consult the manufacturer’s specifications for your specific Grigri model to ensure compatibility. ” The GriGri is simple too, but I personally just like to use the equipment for what it was made for. But there are currently two devices on the market: the Petzl GriGri (2019) and the GriGri+, this article will help you decide between the two. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. Nov 15, 2022 · A PDL is just short fixing without a self belay. Mar 11, 2015 · The short-fixing concept is that the leader is continually climbing. Jun 20, 2018 · Interested in the Petzl Grigri 2 belay device? Our in-depth review breaks down the pros and cons and compares it to the GriGri +. But, like any piece of equipment, it has ways that it can be used more or less safely. (this also allows them to start shortfixing if they finish hauling before the second finishes cleaning) Then the leader just clips 20’ loops of slack to them as they clean. I climb a lot with people who are already experienced with regular grigri. The GriGri with all of its magic does not replace a proper rappelling device. In using this technique, it is necessary to have sufficient climbing experience to make a sound judgement call as to when it is appropriate to short-fix, and when it is not. Feb 13, 2020 · A grigri is no more secure than a second ascender. When it's May 8, 2019 · Gear ReviewMy inner mathematician got SO excited when Petzl suggested that I do (as a follow-up to my GRIGRI 2 review) a comparison review of the GRIGRI+ and the new GRIGRI (the third one). The leader removes their GriGri and backup knot and continues climbing as normal. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri has continued to set the standard for belay devices with cam-assisted blocking (braking). Two 60 meter dynamic lead/follow lines and a 70 meter static haul line tied off at 60 meters so that we could lower out. An autoblock is an optional but often used addition. This means you can effectively remove the time it takes to belay the seconder on each pitch. Nov 29, 2016 · On the first pitch, the leader is belayed by the follower from the ground. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. In short, there is no climbing without it. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. Apr 24, 2007 · If you can work out a way to hit 30 minute pitches without short fixing let me know, but I can't simul 5. A carabiner is a climber’s best friend. As an The grigri doesn't need a backup, as it locks the moment you let go of the handle Assuming it is a newish grigri with a decently thick diameter rope. Don’t confuse short-fixing with simul-climbing, when both Jan 2, 2025 · The Petzl GriGri belay device is now seen almost everywhere climbing happens. May 26, 2019 · Short Fixing w skrócieSzkoła Wspinania GOUP · May 26, 2019 · Short Fixing w skrócie youtube. Thanks in advance. Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. I don't really see why you would use a grigri for a rappel, though. Climbing gyms love the GriGri and both climbers and belayers feel safe when the GriGri is in play, be it at the crag or an indoor facility. It feeds slack with ease, securely catches lead falls, and securely auto-blocks when belaying a follower from above on multi-pitch routes. Short fixing allows both climbers to always be moving. Typically used with aid climbing but could be combined with free climbing. Its safety features are simply unmatched. So I just started using only the grigri. It's an ideal device for belaying both leaders and top-ropers, either sport or Agree with this. The design of the handled camming mechanism enables exceptional descent control. To make the auto block, use a webbing loop designed for this such the Sterling Hollow Block, or second choice, a short prusik loop (start with 1. The Pinch is also good for top roping - very similar to the Grigri. I have been talking to our Petzl rep and we will be changing our RAD system to use the New "Rig" instead of the GRIGRI or GRIGRI 2. com Self belay with Grigri after Short Fixing It is common to fix ropes on a big wall. The assisted braking function makes belaying more convenient when holding a climber or catching a fall. It’s most commonly used on one-day ascents of big walls, or to speed up the process during multi-day ascents. Short Fixing when Speed Climbing - How to Big Wall Climb SuperTopoVideo 5. In my experience, belaying your partner on a 3 hour pitch, you almost have to go hand free sometimes, just to relieve yourself or whatever. once I want to come down Jul 11, 2025 · King Swing lowerout (very simple tutorial) - SuperTopo's climbing discussion forum is the world's most popular community discussion forum for people who actively climb outdoors. 12 like Hans and Yuji Good point though if you are both taking your time and climbing/following everything that a bit of french free will get you through the route. Long story short, this is a great situation for a fixed point lead belay. You clip the rope into it so it starts to de-sheath the ice off of the rope. 1 day ago · [ENG SUB] No Fate Stronger Than Reborn Mom | COMPLETED Mom's Back To Fix The Mess Rewriting Her Bad Ending #full_short_drama #trending_movie #trending_short_drama #hot_movie #hot_film #completed_drama #completed_movie Jun 13, 2018 · Interested in the Petzl Grigri + belay device? Our in-depth review breaks down the pros and cons and compares it to the GriGri 2. If you need to rappel with a GriGri, it is great in a pinch or if a GriGri is just what you happen to have and you don’t normally rappel. May 22, 2025 · The Grigri is designed to work with single ropes within a specific diameter range, typically between 8. Often this is because you’ve climbed the first few pitches and want to have a final night of luxury on the ground before committing to the wall. There are details left out, like building the anchor, and clipping in more then once to the anchor before going off belay, but Short fixing with grigri isn't as safe as silent partner. May 24, 2011 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Jun 19, 2023 · The Petzl GriGri is one of the most used belay devices out there. 5 mm and 11 mm. Yeh fair enough. I will sometimes be climbing with less experienced people. High quality example sentences with “short fixing” in context from reliable sources - Ludwig is the linguistic search engine that helps you to write better in English Dec 31, 2010 · The new GRIGRI 2 will be smaller and will not work well with 1/2" rope. A safer alternative to simul-climbing for steep big wall routes is the technique of short-fixing, where the leader effectively sets up a fixed rope for the second climber to ascend while the leader simultaneously continues up the next pitch using a rope solo climbing technique. Also, thanks Petzl for coming through on my deep down wish that I couldn’t fit in A Climber’s Christmas II. bviv qftohrq yead zfo naukj uhecx jxbh awp fztncdg lcpeet