Best grigri reddit. The setup I mentioned allows you to climb freely without having to mess with the rope. I use a grillon on my lanyard, it works well. I'm a fan of the Edelrid MegaJul myself. Knowing how to belay with multiple devices is an asset. Locking (I. With the G+ that can be mitigated. May 1, 2024 · Are you about to buy a Petzl GriGri and wondering which model you should choose: the Petzl Gri Gri or the Petzl GriGri+? In this post we’ll list the differences and help you decide which belay device is best for you. I'm not as comfortable lead climbing if my belayer is using a tube style device, with very few exceptions. The GriGri doesn’t block well in guide mode and can get locked open in some circumstances (not a deal breaker but the guide is a no brainer). When using a GriGri with a Grilock please make sure to use the small end for the GriGri and big end for the harness. Just dont trust them with your life. Otherwise pick the GriGri 2. Having someone belay with a device they’ve never used before and no Got a used grigri, anything I should look for where it wouldn’t be 100% to use anymore? On the matter of fixed-point belay, guides from AMGA, IFMGA, ACMG (Canadian), ENSA (French guide school) and DAV (German) has recommended munter hitch or tube style device, and recommended against the use of Grigri bc of less rope slippage, and potential increased force on the top placement. Hi all, with the release of the Petzl Neox I've seen a lot of discussion about the best application for different devices and was surprised to learn some people even use a different device for belaying a leader vs follower. Are there any ways around this, besides for the obvious solution of backup knots, like attaching the grigri to your belay loop with a sling, or some other way of using it? Asking someone to belay you with a grigri is totally fine. Is it a solid choice for glacier travel as well or is something like the tried and true microtraxion a better option? Apr 27, 2021 · We bought and field tested 6 of the best belay devices in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. In this DAV article, page 4, shows ranges of force experienced by different belay methods: I have no The GriGri is great because it’s assisted braking so in the event something unforeseen happens and your belayer loses control, you’re more likely to be protected. What you mean to ask is which belay device to use, not which ATC. Well, you're certainly not going to be double-strand rappelling. The Pilot is simple, light, and perfect for what it does. Move to other ABD’s later once you gain more experience…. The grigri is over hyped. especially for lead climbing I like it a lot more than the grigri. I much prefer my rope runner pro for most SRT jobs, but it is nice to have the RADS system when you need it. I feel like the search for a good locking carabiner that's actually light, durable, and doesn't freeze is almost a hopeless endeavor. I would assume that anyone who has a grigri hanging off their harness would know how to use it, but if they didn’t, it’s definitely on them to tell you that before they start belaying you with it. Too easy for the gate to come undone. I only seem to buy other brands where there are gaps in their lineup like a grigri for sport belay. Thanks! Jun 13, 2017 · Choose the GriGri + if you use skinny ropes, have worn GriGri's before, are frustrated with the cam tension, or want the anti-panic handle. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. I've heard that lowering climber with Birdie is heavier compared to GriGri. Petzl now strongly recommends the second "new" method, so if you're learning new techniques go for this one rather than the"classic" method. I got into a discussion with some friends today about which way the biner should be while belaying (if the wide end should touch the belay device, or your harness). Dmm, mostly because I live in wales and like to support local industry…. Here you can ask which headphone is better, which amp you should buy, which gear best fit your budget and anything related to headphone comparisons and purchasing. Finally getting involved in a great subreddit, many thanks to those that contribute here, it’s proved useful many times! My question: Does anyone here have any recommendations for a good quality carabiner for carrying additional items on the outside of my rucksack, when travelling. But I'm pretty anti-Grigri for beginners, whether you're top-roping or leading, so you'll probably get a less biased answer from someone else. Second unties the knot and raps both strands on the other device, with partner giving fireman belay. Gri gri or gri gri + will work but will require you to manually pull rope through every once in a while. Oct 1, 2020 · I have both the new GriGri and the Plus, and the new non-plus one feeds slack easier, and lowers more smoothly. Safe climbing all! The Edelrid pinch is still very new (I don’t think it’s actually publicly available yet, just the demo pieces that some pros have) Given that you are still new to climbing (or at least gear ownership) I’d strongly recommend staying with the more established gear types. My options are Petzl GriGri (3) & Beal Birdie. But hat larger basket is nice when you are rappelling with an atc because it has room for both rope strands. E. The plus would be the best option for someone who is leading a lot and is expecting a new or less experienced belayer to be on the other end of the rope. The result is a comprehensive comparison-tested review, and some 1. Jun 29, 2019 · There are other assisted locking belay devices on the market. Even the single locking carabiners are a bit risky for in tree use. It would be be great to hear your experiences with the grigri+ and if you'd recommend it. ), what is your opinion of the device after using it for a while? I am in the market for a new one, and am wondering which one will be best down the road. Two micro-traxions or a micro-traxion and an ascender down below works really well. Here are our in-depth reviews. The most ironic part is, I now have a keeper cord for my GriGri. There are other assisted locking belay devices on the market. , double action) carabiners are the standard for belay devices and most other critical single point connections. I mainly top rope solo sustained, thin, and slabby climbs so stopping to manually feed the slack through does not make for a smooth climb. " Also, if you ever have to use another grigri - very few people buy the plus in comparison to the normal grigri (at least in my experience), you don’t want to find out that you don’t have the anti panic with someone on the other end of the rope. More important considerations are size and shape, radius of the basket, how it handles rope, all kinds I got a DMM Ceros carabiner to prevent the possibility of cross-loading while belaying. The main upside of the plus is the steel which really only matters if you are guiding or doing something else where wear on the device is a concern. I personally would say you should stick with an ATC for now, because there aren't as many ways to mess up. Single action means no lock (just push). /thread Honestly kind of surprised so many people are recommending anything else for someone just starting out. This is a double action locker (twist and push). The two Petzl units don't have anti-panic mechanisms, which often get in the way of a smooth lower. I love using some sort of ATC for lead belay personally. Check out the poll and feel free to The grigri/atc debate comes down the the argument that a component belayer doesn’t need a brake assist. I almost always simul rap so rappelling isn't a big deal for me but might be for you. It's a personal choice and I'm sure some people will (for some 104 votes, 46 comments. This is nice because with the GriGri, the only time I'm really worried about a new climber making a mistake is during lowering. It even saved me from a sketchy rappel in the dark without a rap device at EPC shortly after I installed it. It's clear you have your mind made up and are just preaching. Hi all! I'm about to buy a new assisted braking belay device mainly for lead climbing. 00001%). Its basically the love child of an ATC and a grigri. , the Petzl attaché has a pear shape -- which end should face my harness and why? I am passionately team Grigri, and many of the people who I climb with are too. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to use. Just did my first top rope solo, would love to get some feedback on the system I used. e. I don't really see why you would use a grigri for a rappel, though. GriGri, specifically for top-belay I recently attended a two day trad. 1 Grigri and 1 Guide/Reverso/whatever per team. . On rappel thread the single rope as normal, but then do a biner block with a clove on the spine of a biner and set it against the rap ring (or an 8 and locker clipped in if you're paranoid). It takes some time to get used to but once you do, it provides a very smooth belay. There's a sport version (one rope, functionally, its a grigri) and the alpine version, which though called "alpine" works well for all climbing. Anecdotal evidence, but the only time I have been dropped (luckily indoors and not super high up) was by a belayer who was uncomfortable operating a grigri and fucked up. It functions just like a GriGri, but it has a panic handle. The home of Climbing on reddit. So, moral of the story. Forcing someone to belay with a GriGri when they are not yet comfortable is a terrible idea. You and your grigri just want something that wont get in the way which is the Positron. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. I’ve had to basically reteach people how to belay properly that learned on a grigri without developing best practices (for any belay device) like always keeping your hand on the break strand. Simple, fast, everyone is always backed up. Most discussions refer to belaying and not any rappelling scenarios. It's cheaper and has more versatility than the GriGri. First rappel goes down on one strand with the grigri, other strand is saddlebagged and clipped to Grigri is what you should be starting with. The ATC-Pilot is hands-down the best belay device I've ever used. What are you guys using? I'm looking for anything slightly lighter to replace my BD gear. Is there any valid reason to choose one over the other? I will climb with a grigri for lead belaying and an ATC guide or gigi/ovo plate for belaying the follower. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Also have understood that Birdie is better at giving slack. Since I usually climb with Maybe the best of the assisted locking devices, though none of them are perfect (rappelling in locking mode sucks, much nicer on a Grigri). Any opinions on progress capture pulleys for mountaineering? It seems like lots of climbing forums like the RollnLock pulley but most of the conversation is around solo TR. GriGri 1 = 10mm - 11mm GriGri 2 >= 8,9mm Hearing of your weight difference, the Freino appears to be perfectly designed for your situation: " The spur helps increase the friction for improved control of the descent of a heavy load " I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. I've read a few posts on here about rappelling with an ATC versus a Gri Gri and I'm just curious why the vast majority of people choose the ATC over the Gri Gri when they have both available? I'm still far from an expert, but to me rapping with a Gri Gri just seems like such a safer choice. Yes, all climbers should learn to give a safe belay with a GriGri. PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. For rappels fix the rope in the middle, first person rappels with Grigri on single strand. There isn't anything on the market that remotely comes close to the ease of use for lead belay. The GriGri + is a belay device best suited for very new climbers belaying on top rope. Preferably with a threaded / locking clasp. The Mega Jul is best for rappelling, however overall for a singular device to take outside, the Mega Jul is best. It’s basically used like a normal tuber but with extra security. Google it to find pictures of how to orient the devices. The U-bend of the GriGri is rounder, so lowering a climber requires way more hand strength/friction applied to the break strand. Top rope is where a GriGri really stands out. You can still fix your line and rappel single strand, however, unless I'm sorely mistaken. Jun 19, 2023 · But as you are reading this article, you have most likely already decided you want one, and just want to know whether you should choose the GriGri or the GriGri Plus. More expensive, heavier, super crappy modulation for lowering and I found it comparably impossible to feed slack without the device locking and me being forced to thumb down the camming mech. May 5, 2025 · The best assisted-braking devices for lowering are the Petzl GriGri, Petzl Neox, and Edelrid Pinch. It’s super convenient to use at bomber bolted belays with a redirect when you’re swinging leads instead of switching from guide mode to direct belay. I can't imagine The best current setup for top rope soloing is a combo of the Trango Vergo and the Microtrax. They don’t have to be auto locking, though it’s nice in many scenarios. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking devices — and our expert climbing testers have put in hundreds of hours belaying and testing all three kinds. And one that isn’t the size of my face. Sure, it's "more annoying" to feed rope out, but once you're used to it, it will be second nature and I think it's 100% worth the extra effort. Leader is belayed on a Grigri, while carrying the other belay device. As far as I know the only difference between the 1 and 2 is the difference of ropes that the GriGri can handle. In neither of these methods do you need to swap the direction of your hand on the brake rope so I don't really understand your trouble or how you must be holding the grigri 1. Works on double ropes, set up is as simple as an ATC, smoothest in guide mode of anything I've used and is much lighter and much cheaper then a grigri. Grigri plus is basically designed for new climbers, it's not a "new" or "upgraded" model. I've done similar, though I wouldn't be surprised if somebody came in and told me that was an absolutely horrible thing to do by current best practices. Follower is belayed in guide mode. Like it or not, belaying is a muscle memory skill and you should develop that memory in a way that improves safety across all potential situations. The grigri is the gold standard for a reason and is what you should start with. That expanded basket is unneeded and increases the chances of nose loading your biner (from 0% to . My only complaint is paying out slack can be tricky at first for some, I had a second outing where I was teaching my uncle to use it but he hadn't used a grigri before. If youre set on getting a grigri the 2 is probably the better decision. Don't listen to any of these gumbies talking about how the grigri is better. May 5, 2025 · A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. but their gear is also all great. A Grigri is a Grigri and an ATC is an ATC. seminar where the main instructor indicated that he is comfortable using the ATC in guide-mode without always having a hand on the brake-side of the rope because when used that way, it is an "auto-locking device. All that said I The smart is my favourite belay device. The thing with a GRIGRI is it is only rated for up to 11 mm rope, the petzel grillon is rated for up to 13 mm. Here is a good video highlighting the two common methods of belay with a grigri. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) without a carabiner passing through the two closed loop. or just stick with the grigri… The GriGri is going to be a real pain to self-belay. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. As someone who pretty much uses the grigri2 for everything, I found this interesting and want to know what r/tradclimbing uses. Today, thankfully while not on an actual belay, I was playing around with it, and accidently clipped the cam handle of the Grigri behind the retaining clip on the Ceros. Thanks in anticipation! Black Diamond ATC Guide best practices vs. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. I can top rope with a braking device, lead belay, and rappel with two strands from a singular device Reply reply blairdow • To add to the recommendation of getting a toothed/guide ATC, if you want to keep using the regular grigri 2 and still find it too fast consider spending on a freino carabiner to smooth things out. I work at the gym here in my town and the method we use when setting the top rope routes seems like it Only for racking things on my saddle or light speedlining. And yes we are scared of falling. You will find better and more knowledgeable support for the grigri especially in the near future. I'm mainly concerned about the cam engaging too often when lowering or due to rope drag which could get frustrating. com May 1, 2024 · Are you about to buy a Petzl GriGri and wondering which model you should choose: the Petzl Gri Gri or the Petzl GriGri+? In this post we’ll list the differences and help you decide which belay device is best for you. And that any climber would prefer a competent belayer rather than a fancy belay device. I wasn't paying that much attention to the orientation of the Grigri to the rope and I can't remember if it happened as a result of I think the biggest difference between the Grigri 2019 and the Grigri + is who is going to be using it to belay you. Anyone who ones an assisted locking belay device (grigri, click-up, mega-jul, cinch, etc. 1. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. If you don't have a grigri already and you ever find yourself teaching beginners to belay it is very worth the money. Pays rope nicely, and lowering the second in guide mode is much, much nicer than an ATC/Reverso. I climb a lot with people who are already experienced with regular grigri. I know this from experience: I learned to lead belay on an ATC, and I loaded a GriGri backwards the first time I tried using one to lead belay (after a basic how-to weeks before). GriGri seems like a "safe" choice but stainless steel construction of Birdie could be more durable. I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. You made an excellent choice! Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. Use anything with a rating even the knock off chinese ones. A grigri will catch a fall if you're unconscious and is much much more likely to catch a factor 2 fall. npyhzo mtobo sbztuz rvqj vmr unaur bwfp spqdtxj veoswt xlrltlp
26th Apr 2024