What is lead rope climbing reddit. He is adamant that top-roping is absolutely NOT sport climbing. I started lead climbing, then switched to almost only bouldering, which I think all in all has affected my "technique" negatively for lead. It's four hours long so I'm sure I'll learn a lot, but I was just wondering if there are any useful tips or things to know about lead climbing that would be useful to know going in. Ropes appear expensive so I want to make Please see my reply to tongmengjia here. Length also gets in to twin and double ropes. I'm just curious When on lead you must be careful to avoid stepping in front of the rope, in a fall the rope around your leg causes you to rotate upside down with your head swinging toward the rock. 8 with little difficulty. Getting the rope on the thing you want to climb can often be the Buying my first rope. Hello! I've been climbing for about 2 years now, but over the past 3 months have been going on a regular basis and getting more serious about it. A fiery debate has been happening since the beginning of modern climbing: lead climbing versus top rope. Tips, thoughts, recommendations? Any input is much appreciated. walking into the wall will provide more slack as you feed rope through your belay device simultaneously. Long story short, you'll already know about these if you need them. [1] The claim against usage for lead climbing is that since the device auto-locks, the belayer is required to hold the device open while feeding rope to the leader. In lead, the selection it's a compromise between efficiency and risk of failure, so in that sense lead is more mentally difficult than bouldering. My SO and I got into an argument about sport climbing. 11s. g. I don't have much desire to do this, but it seems like there's a sentiment (I've seen it on this sub as well) that indoor top rope is just "pulling plastic" and is somehow an inferior way to climb. Don’t just psyche yourself up, methodically review a climb and how you’re going to cruise up it. An equivalent mistake would be clipping Hi climbers, I’m planning on top rope soloing a 50m single pitch, anchor at the top, throw my 70m rope down, rap, and then climb back up. Mostly lead climbing with a Honestly I prefer to keep my body upright by grabbing the rope and let my feet take the impact, but that's just my personal take. It's a personal choice and I'm sure some people will (for Bouldering is short, intense climbing. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Just open the package and plop the rope on the ground, flake, and climb? I'm looking a buying a new rope for using in the gym, as my partner is getting tired of me abusing his 60M sport rope. Always lead. When I led it in November 2004, I’d been climbing for just a few weeks, and my learning process was supe Belay Technique. Aquí nos gustaría mostrarte una descripción, pero el sitio web que estás mirando no lo permite. That way I am always grabbing the tail end with one of my hands. Rope climbing is long, steady climbing at a much "lower" V grade equivalent that take insane amounts of endurance and strategy to get through in Hi! Just started climbing, and I've only done top rope and bouldering so far, but in all of the professional climbing I've seen, everyone is climbing lead. 15's, have been done on ropes right around the 10mm range. If injury and death are what's The more experience you get with rope climbing, the more likely you are to begin lead climbing. The problem is that my local gym that I have a membership to says you need to be climbing at least a 5. 8s outside and lead belaying my buddy. I’ve always had dedicated PAS but am leaning toward ditching it entirely and primarily anchoring with the climbing rope (I mostly do multi-pitch trad). 8 - 5. I was near the top of the wall when I fell. My trueIf you are planning to lead, a full rack of draws would be helpful. Hell, the previously mentioned partner actually broke his ankle bouldering last year. So I'm going to start lead climbing in my local gym and I'm going to need a rope. ]though Petzl recommends the device for use in both applications. The real If I'm reading this correctly, you are referring to rope soloing, which uses a device at the belay instead of a human belayer. I forced myself to do some today but didn't leave feeling any better about it--actually managed to psych myself out on a top rope route after 11 votes, 16 comments. Also, depending on your area and route, you may need different gear. I guess I went into the conversation as a somewhat ignorant climber that almost exclusively boulders, I consider climbing with ropes and safety gear (non-trad) to be sport climbing. Your lizard brain doesn't understand that the equipment will keep you safe, it just sees a rope going from your waist down instead of up, and it freaks out. We are going to practice the next few nights practicing the belay technique at home. When it's multiple number grades harder than you can climb lead it. 9, but have been Hi! When you belay a lead climber and notice there is too much slack, what is the proper way to take it in? I was taught, that I should pull the tail end of the rope with my right hand simultaneously the active rope with my left, then grab the tail-end near the belay device with my left hand, move up my right and repeat. But today I was leading an overhanging route where one of the quickdraws was in my lap as I clipped it, and I ended up clipping between my figure 8 and my harness. Is anyone else in Solo climbing I am super new to climbing. If you are following, you won't need much. I started climbing around five months ago, mainly as a way to exercise and to help with anxiety. lots of direction changes. The problem? I become nearly paralyzed with anxiety about actually climbing lead routes. in 20+ years of climbing and falling (and falling on purpose) I've never hurt my hands by grabbing the rope, but hey, it could happen tomorrow. Depends on what you're climbing. I also want the rope to be able to perform well outdoors. I recently began climbing, and have done almost all my climbing outside. 1. What’s your opinion on lead vs top rope in regards to claiming grades? I was introduced into the sport by very proficient and experienced climbers who held the attitude that only leading was Lead climbing (or leading) is a technique in rock climbing where the 'lead climber' clips their climbing rope to the climbing protection as they ascend a pitch of the climbing route, while their 'second' (also called the 'belayer') remains at the base of the pitch belaying the rope to protect the 'lead climber' in the event that they fall (e. I have been strictly top rope so far and have gotten up to 5. With a single Im curious what everyone’s climbing progression/timeline has been like? How quickly did you progress from V1 to V2, and then V2 to V3 etc (not limited to bouldering grades). Safe to say, I have mixed feelings about it now. Lead climbing is the bread and butter of rock climbing. If you sport climb single pitch, a GrirGri is fine. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Your lizard brain is just trying to look out for you, but your rational brain knows better. ” Heavier climbers (~200lb+)! What do you weigh, and what grade can you rope/boulder? How long have you been climbing? Share Add a Comment Sort by: Top Open comment sort options Best Top New Controversial Old Q&A straightCrimpin • Both top-rope and lead climbing fall under the umbrella of rope climbing, but the transition between the two can be daunting and tricky to navigate. One of these was right below a small roof that I wanted to protect well, so I placed two cams in it about 5 feet apart from one another, at the same height. Thanks in advance and have a good one! 54 votes, 44 comments. And i probably missed several other ways ropes will be used on alpine climbs. Don't let it be "am I good enough to lead this" make it "I'm climbing" which is synonymous with leading in your mind. ". Is top roping something that we can learn on our own (with the aid of online videos and books/guides) without somebody more experienced to go with us? I've talked to a few experienced climbers at my gym and they say as long as I The differences between rock climbing ropes can quite literally mean life and death. Do what feels comfortable, be safe, have fun, and be safe So, what’s the difference between top roping and lead climbing? Top roping you’re supported from above, while lead climbing you’re always above your rope. . Your basic gear is a harness, a belay device, and rope. Im pretty sure there is some top rope information towards the beginning of the book though most of it revolves around lead / big wall climbing. Lead climbing allows you to explore more adventurous multi-pitch routes while sharpening your risk Newbie question but I'm wondering what counts as having finished a climb on an indoors top rope route. Hi all, apologize if this is a dumb question. Climbing Magazine | Bouldering, Trad, Alpine, and Sport Climbing Redirecting Like many things in climbing, it's a personal choice whether to take measures for a very low probability event. I want to take up lead climbing, is this sort of course worth it? One thing I dont see very many people do if moving their body while belaying. I am a little weary about lead climbing for fear of falling/heights, but have decided to push myself regardless. Plus I want to dip my toes in some lead climbing this season. Does the route you want to climb have top access to hang the rope? If not, you’ll have to get the rope of there by other means (lead rope soloing an adjacent pitch, aiding, etc. Or, to put it in the words of the purists: do you even climb if you don’t lead? 60 votes, 98 comments. However, with bouldering, I feel so much weaker and still struggle on some V2s and V3s at the bouldering gym. Going to use a standard grigri on my belay loop and a Petzl shunt as a backup on my leg loop (but also pas’d up to my main harness loops). One of the primary differences regarding lead climbing and Unlike top-rope climbing, where the rope is already anchored above the climber, lead climbing involves clipping the rope into protection points as you ascend. No, it is not. Idk why I was wearing jeans that day but they saved my leg flesh! I escaped with some dented pride, a little cut on my pinkie and a simple lesson learned the hard way, “don’t put your foot behind the rope. The home of Climbing on reddit. My goal is to be climbing outdoors by next spring. Whenever I hear the big no-nos (with regards to clipping) for lead climbing, it's always not to z-clip and to back-clip. I signed up to take a lead climbing course there this coming Sunday. I hit someone standing there on the head with my butt in my fall and I guess this My favorite sling for multipitch trad anchors is the rope I am climbing on. You should check out this pdf that Mammut has put together Or you could check out this pdf from the UIAA stating that age does not have any bearing on how a climbing rope performs. The rope drag from pulling the rope back through the draws makes it a workout on its own and you don’t get to cheat a rest as easy. Hey everyone! I've been climbing for about 3 months now in the gym on my campus. The mere fact that you are unsure of the equipment you need to lead climb tells I'm a year into climbing (gym, top rope) and recently learned and tested so I can lead climb at my gym. Why is this? Isn't top rope a little safer, as there basically aren't falls? God damn it was so much fun. I only went to a gym for the first time this past week. For example, I was climbing with double ropes on thursday in the Gunks, where there are lots of horizontal cracks. A common mistake while belaying a lead climber is to hold open the device the entire time, thus defeating the auto 57 votes, 42 comments. The 10 year suggestion by manufacturers is arbitrary nonsense & shouldn't be spread as good and/or We tied into 17 climbing ropes to find the best of the best. Any suggestions? I wanted to know when the right time would be to take the lead climbing class my gym offers. Is top rope climbing just like belaying or is it different somehow? With top rope climbing, the anchor is at the top of the climb, with the rope going down one side to under ideal conditions with minimal use you should retire a rope after ~10 years. And on multi-pitch trad routes with a single rope, I still prefer a tube device. The climber leads the pitch, fixes the rope to the anchor, raps down to the first belay, cleans that anchor, and mechanically ascends the rope back up to continue climbing, covering the pitch 3 times. Looking for advice on buying a rope, any recommendations would be welcome. Also hoping to get into outdoor eventually (baby steps). " Your statement "you're no more at risk burning your hands on a lead climb than you are on a top rope. If we're going solely on injuries, than bouldering absolutely beats out roped climbing. It has a lot of great information on systems needed to solo on rope. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. Today, my boyfriend and I took our brand new climbing rope to the gym to test out our shiny new lead cert passes. This article will explain lead rock climbing in detail, covering its You probably just need a 40m rope for the gym, but check with your gym first. I'm not at a point where I want to retire/cut my current rope, so I was planning on purchasing a 30-40M rope that I'd use exclusively in the gym. Just staring off climbing and wondering, what’s the difference between top rope and lead climbing? What you need to learn the lingo! Lead climbing – also known as leading – sees the lead – or first – climber clipping their rope to pieces of climbing protection as they ascend the climbing route. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. Most of my anticipated outdoor projects this year are at least double that length. Wasn't holding the rope properly and it slipped through. 10 beforehand. What is your favorite all around rope? I'm looking to purchase a rope for some lead climbing indoors. As such, it is a skill that most rock climbers are motivated to learn. Any tips for preparing physically and mentally as we transition into Rope Soloing Just watched Pete Whittaker's film about rope soloing Freerider on El Cap last night and since I haven't stopped thinking about how nice rope soloing sounds. I lead on doubles at the Gunks so a GriGri is a non-starter for me. Surpricingly! In bouldering it's very "free" just me and the wall. Am I going to die? Any advice very welcome! Lead Climbing: ATC vs GriGri vs etc. What is the official rule to having completed an indoor top rope climb? Do you have a regular climbing partner that you could test with? I’ve been climbing for 15 years and wouldn’t do a lead test at a gym with a stranger I had minimal climbing experience with (well, not just test I wouldn’t lead/sport climb with someone I hadn’t already climbed with for a while and was very familiar with). I know I want to get a dry rope so I can also use it for mountaineering/alpinism but would like to also be able to use it for some sport climbing and potentially some multi-pitch. if the lead climber falls, the second will lock the rope). However, the thrill and excitement of lead climbing, with its key differences such as rope placement, gear requirements, physical demands, fall distance, and belay technique, can make No mention of the Texas rope trick, but that's a useful maneuver requiring only an additional runner to get safely back to the ground without leaving any gear, but you can't be any further off the ground than 1/3rd your total rope length. Hi all! I’ve been climbing for 2 years now and I just started outdoor rope climbing (woohoo!). the gri-gri lets me control the rope better when my climber needs to boink or jug up the rope, I don't have to worry about the brake releasing if he asshats me or something bad happens. Is it possible to top or lead rope solo? Also this may sound like a dumb question but how do you top rope outside? Someone may use lead climbing to set up a rope and then prepare that rope as a 'fixed rope' for the remainder of the day/week/season. And how. The trick is to use your short gym rope and have your partner lower you fast, then pull your own rope SUPER fast after your partner gets off belay. It allows for gear placements that would create significant rope drag with a single rope. They said I should be able to consistently climb an 11b or higher before lead climbing, and I should wait a little bit longer. My climbing gym only has 24ft top rope/autobelay walls. alpine draws), rope technique (single / twin rope vs. I'm curious to find out what other people are doing for a lead rope in their local gyms. I have a slight fear of heights but i got that managed by the first few sessions. I have questions about the difference between top rope climbing and lead climbing. If rap rings are Or, by this point you will be leading outdoors so you can use your lead partners' ropes, which is usually how it goes because there is always at least one rope for every 2 people. I soon discovered this after I couldn't climb any farther. For example, we did a couple of routes in JTree where you can hike up the side, sometimes a 4th class ascent, to set up a top rope. Average diameter of rope when action direct (14d) was first sent was 10mm. Hey Tundrawolf_ This is from wikipedia: [. Thanks! Rope drag: depends strongly on the material available (sport climbing draws vs. ). Helps if our climber has a Only minor critique would be to put some sort of rope protector under those blue slings extending the masterpoint so they can’t be abraded by any meandering climbing. Personally, I opt for a skinnier rope when I buy 70m or 80m ropes but for all purpose cragging or a big wall I will use a Yeah I think that’s totally valid. 8 in Rumney, New Hampshire, called Little Angler. The fear is just your lizard brain trying to keep you from killing yourself. Do you bring your own lead rope, or do you use your gym's lead ropes? Been indoor climbing on and off for the last few years (top rope) and my partner and I are looking to take our lead course in the next two months. It’ll be my main focus/goal for this outdoor season. At which grade did you start to plateau? When did you start seriously training? I've started to think about lead climbing and so has my climbing partner. This makes lead climbing both more dangerous and more difficult. I talked to my gyms front desk about a lead climbing course for my partner and me. It can be really useful when going to give slack. 10s and send/project 5. There are also half ropes where you might lead using two and Belayer with top rope) lead climbing and belaying and multiple falls from different hights for 75€ (students) / 100 € everyone else It is mandatory to know how to belay dynamic with your body and that you learned to fall from above the last clip Hiya, My GF and I are taking the lead test this weekend in the Bay Area at our climbing gym. What grade walls were you doing before making the switch to lead climbing? Update: Thanks for all your advice everyone! I have convinced my Lead climbing opens up new possibilities and challenges for climbers looking to advance beyond top rope climbing. After lots of use and abuse on rock, ice, and at the gym, these came out on top. I’ve been climbing about a year and a half, however for the past ~5 months I haven’t been going as much as I used to just being busy with school (college student) and work. I'm not as comfortable lead climbing if my belayer is using a tube style device, with very few exceptions. I'm mainly needing to know which rope I need to buy for simple top roping and maybe a few lead climbs once I learn how to belay and clip in. less durable (loses elasticity over time from stretching). 294 votes, 52 comments. If that is not an option for whatever reason then I use whatever slings I have available on my harness. Sure, it's "more annoying" to feed rope out, but once you're used to it, it will be second nature and I think it's 100% worth the extra effort. And yes we are scared of falling. half rope technique), experience in reading the best line through the pitch, and the pitch itself (straight line, no traverses vs. Here's what you need to know to buy your first rope. I am interested in learning to lead climb asap as there’s a lot of stuff outside with bolts obviously, but I figure it’s better to learn the safety stuff Hey guys :) I have been climbing indoors for about a year now. I would love to learn how to lead belay so I can go outside. 11+ confidently in a gym setting. Partner gets back on belay quick and you’re good to go. Generally if you’re new to lead climbing you don’t fully understand how more slack = less impact (the impact gets applied to system slower and more evenly spread out through out the system). You have to train The dude had been climbing for at least 5 years mind you. I always have a reverso on my harness when climbing outside for use as a rap device but in the gym, I use a gri-gri all the time on TR and most of the time on lead. It looks like a lot of my friends are getting into lead climbing and going outdoors. I'm climbing at a 5. That being said, we have only mock belayed twice and only one time was with the GriGri. I wish I could say it was a rope-stretching classic, but it was in truth a runty little route, 30 feet of traversing jugs and small knobby feet. Granted, it looks like hard work, but it makes the necessity of having a partner for lead climbing obsolete. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. " is absolutely untrue - especially in multi-pitch climbing. 11-5. My gf and I have been climbing (mostly indoors) about a month and a half and I've decided I want to buy some top roping gear for outdoors climbing. I think I'd only prefer static rope for top rope soloing, and even that is theoretical because in order for me to get the top rope up I first have to lead rope solo up there and therefore I'll still end up top roping on dynamic rope. Usually this issue comes up when flagging , backstepping, or on traversing routes. Assuming you have a decent rope, not a fat fuzzy gym caterpillar, and your climber partner clips reasonably smoothly without panicked jerky rope tugging, you should be able to handle a grigri like an ATC most of the time and only occasionally resort to thumbing the cam. LEAD CLIMBING MISTAKES; this is why they tell you never to have your feet behind the rope. Pretty sure most of the top grades in climbing, maybe save the 5. Am I wrong with assuming that lead climbing and top roping are Rope burns are known to occur in half rope technique with HMS in the HMS carabiner itself, or when lowering in a redirect carabiner, in which two independent ropes are simultaneously hung and loaded, but only lowered through one strand (a possible accident scenario in sport climbing). I'm sort of stuck on which gear to buy to top rope on a few walls. I suppose it really depends on how we're thinking of "danger. 274 votes, 101 comments. A lot of Reddit has this do-it-yourself attitude and this is not a safe approach for rock climbing. Any thoughts or tips? Imaging yourself falling is really common (it’s currently holding back my lead climbing big time), imagining yourself cleanly climbing is harder, it’s more involved, but it’s beneficial. Hey everyone, I've been climbing for about 7 months, so if I don't say something correctly I'm sorry! Recently within the past two months I have gotten into top rope climbing and I can confidently climbing 5. One of the resources I've been using to learn and understand the systems at play has been Me, Myself & I. I've seen people touch the bar at the top, touch the final hold, match on the final hold for 3 seconds, touch the autobelay deviceand depending on the route some of these things are much harder than others. I’ve been climbing 5. But take it Are lead climbing courses worth it? I have been top roping at the local gym for a year and a bit, and they charge around 85$ for a lead climbing course. The term i My first lead climb was a 5. Tips for a newbie with lead climbing / climbing outdoors - confidence and technique I am relatively new to climbing, and recently went on a trip with my local climbing group to try outdoor climbing for the first time. I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. I definitely prefer top roping, and can flash some 5. We have been mock leading for some time now and feel confident that we can pass the test. I've been bouldering for around 2 years and got interested in rope climbing (top-rope, soon lead). Take your time, don't rush into anything. My first rope was a lightweight 80m outdoor rope, after a year of climbing with it, it now sits around 65 meters. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. I am passionately team Grigri, and many of the people who I climb with are too. What are the best techniques? Lead climbing should be scary when you start out. *Dynamic- designed to stretch around 8% (varies from rope to rope) used commonly for sport climbing. It will be used for lead & sport climbing outdoors and indoors. My question is, how can I improve my Oh, I certainly agree that you're more likely to injure yourself bouldering than you are to die while roped climbing. I'm a fairly new climber (2 months) I'm desperately wanting to get outside more and start climbing roped problems instead of just bouldering outside. kxucp fiums lnva lqh mjzzvb rmrpgm nxxn zmwoj oflkor xbm